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Thread: Pad recommendations for Integra

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Tampa Bay, FL
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    66

    Default Pad recommendations for Integra

    I've always been a big believer in Hawk Blues but lately I am not happy with the performance of these pads on my car. When i put a fresh set on I'm excited for the first few laps...pedal is stiff, bite is awesome, confidence high...but after about lap 4 or 5 the pedal softens up considerably and my confidence goes down. She still stops fine but the weak pedal feel is disconcerting. And once the pad gets to about halfway it's pretty much ready for the trash.

    Has anyone else experienced this same thing? I would like to hear from some others as to what pads they're running and their experiences with them.

    The guy i bought the car from used Raysbestos ST(something) pads, but at $250 a set they're a bit rich for my blood.

    Suggestions anyone?
    #88 ITA Integra
    CFR SEDiv

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Colchester, CT, USA
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    That doesn't sound like a pad issue to me. Fluid? Master Cylinder?
    Jeff L

    ITA Miata



    2010 NARRC Champion

    2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
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    2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    CT
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    982

    Default

    Integras are notorious for having a longer pedal feel once the pads gets worn over half way. Is the car still stopping ok, but it needs more pedal?
    Jeremy Billiel

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    North Olmsted, Ohio
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Billiel View Post
    Integras are notorious for having a longer pedal feel once the pads gets worn over half way. Is the car still stopping ok, but it needs more pedal?
    Ive delt with this before on my Civic. But it ended up being the type of brake fluid I was using. Switched to RBF600 and have never had an issue since.

    Also, a lot has to do with the heat transfer in the brake pad itself. When pads are new, the heat has enough pad material to dissipate thru. When the pads get older than 50% life, its harder for the heat to dissipate causing a mushy pedal feel.
    Greg Vandersluis
    #4 1990 Honda Civic Si
    #97 2003 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
    #93 2006 Ford Mustang
    Carbotech/BFGoodrich/Vandersluis Motorsports
    2010 Great Lakes Division ITA Champion
    2012 Great Lakes Division T1 Champion

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    West Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by ITA_honda View Post
    Ive delt with this before on my Civic. But it ended up being the type of brake fluid I was using. Switched to RBF600 and have never had an issue since.

    Also, a lot has to do with the heat transfer in the brake pad itself. When pads are new, the heat has enough pad material to dissipate thru. When the pads get older than 50% life, its harder for the heat to dissipate causing a mushy pedal feel.
    I am dealing with some pedal travel issues on my CRX Si. So far master cylinder, master clyinder - booster adjustment, and new brake pads have helped but still feels a little soft. I am using ATE Super Blue at the moment. Will have to try 600 and see if it feels different.

    Thanks Greg! And see ya at Mid O this weekend sounds like!

    -Sean

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Sean, do you know when the 5:01 guys are arriving and where y'all will paddock? I'm hoping to be near the bathroom if that's an option for us. Or do they put port-a-john's out in the wilderness?
    Marty Doane
    ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
    2016 Winnebago Journey (home)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Naperville, IL
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    Default

    To the original poster, if you liked the Blues, you'll love the DTC-60's. Much better feel and consistency. I think a little less aggressive initial bite, but better stopping power over the whole braking event. With the Blues, the rotors were junk when the pads were used up. With the DTC'60's I can double stint rotors.

    Quote Originally Posted by darthmonkeyIT View Post
    I am dealing with some pedal travel issues on my CRX Si. So far master cylinder, master clyinder - booster adjustment, and new brake pads have helped but still feels a little soft. I am using ATE Super Blue at the moment. Will have to try 600 and see if it feels different.
    Did you ever get to try a Honda OEM master cylinder? Did that just help but not solve the problem?

    Quote Originally Posted by ITA_honda View Post
    Also, a lot has to do with the heat transfer in the brake pad itself. When pads are new, the heat has enough pad material to dissipate thru. When the pads get older than 50% life, its harder for the heat to dissipate causing a mushy pedal feel.
    I experience this and also believe it is a heat capacity issue. I can go lower than 50%, probably to 25% or a little less. But it is a pretty abrupt change if I let it go to low.
    Jared Cromas
    2012-2010 & 2008 Midwestern Council ITA Champion
    2008 Midwestern Council Driver of the Year
    SCSCC Race Steward
    #111 FP/ST '90 Gold/Blk Acura Integra

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    West Michigan
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    120

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    Quote Originally Posted by mc-integra111 View Post
    Did you ever get to try a Honda OEM master cylinder? Did that just help but not solve the problem?
    Yes I did. It helped but the brake pedal and for that matter the braking force isn't there. There is a mechanical problem in the system.

    I am going to tear the system apart over the winter and replace a few things. Primarily in the routing.

    My current theory is the Teflon stainless steel hoses are at end of life. The pedal will build up pressure just fine with the car off but once the booster kicks the pedal feels awful and my brake zone travel is enormous. One or more of the Teflon lines may have been damage or weakened from heat/age and s bulging under higher pressure loads (IE booster engaged). Going to replace those with a proper kit since the current lines were generic length purchased and are to long.

    Also have a "T" joint at my back brake lines that we managed to bleed some air out of. Will be replacing that with a cross and adding a bleeder screw to make this easier to bleed.

    Trapped a air bubble as well in my brake bias. Tilton arm adjustable that is a PITA to bleed. Will be changing to a screw type to make it easier to bleed.

    May also investigate the prop valve since I do not know its current condition along with the slop in the front calipers which towards the end of the season was getting to be noticeable excessive.

    If the brakes are still crap after all of that I am going to buy a anchor with a retractable winch to throw out of the car at braking zones.

    -Sean

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