That doesn't sound like a pad issue to me. Fluid? Master Cylinder?
That doesn't sound like a pad issue to me. Fluid? Master Cylinder?
Jeff L
ITA Miata
2010 NARRC Champion
2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
2008 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
Integras are notorious for having a longer pedal feel once the pads gets worn over half way. Is the car still stopping ok, but it needs more pedal?
Jeremy Billiel
Ive delt with this before on my Civic. But it ended up being the type of brake fluid I was using. Switched to RBF600 and have never had an issue since.
Also, a lot has to do with the heat transfer in the brake pad itself. When pads are new, the heat has enough pad material to dissipate thru. When the pads get older than 50% life, its harder for the heat to dissipate causing a mushy pedal feel.
Greg Vandersluis
#4 1990 Honda Civic Si
#97 2003 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
#93 2006 Ford Mustang
Carbotech/BFGoodrich/Vandersluis Motorsports
2010 Great Lakes Division ITA Champion
2012 Great Lakes Division T1 Champion
I am dealing with some pedal travel issues on my CRX Si. So far master cylinder, master clyinder - booster adjustment, and new brake pads have helped but still feels a little soft. I am using ATE Super Blue at the moment. Will have to try 600 and see if it feels different.
Thanks Greg! And see ya at Mid O this weekend sounds like!
-Sean
Sean, do you know when the 5:01 guys are arriving and where y'all will paddock? I'm hoping to be near the bathroom if that's an option for us. Or do they put port-a-john's out in the wilderness?
Marty Doane
ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
2016 Winnebago Journey (home)
To help totally hijack this thread for a moment; I am planning on being there around 1-2 PM. The rest of the guys will be there around 3. Not sure where we will be paddocked. I have been assigned Chief of claming trailer space since I will be there first.
-Sean
I was using Blue's myself and I agree to a point, modulation was there yet you had to be very careful with the pedal. I switched to DTC-60's and even with half worn rotors, I have good modulation and wear. FYI, I have always used Motul RBF600 - it's the defacto standard in my book for Honda/Acuras. For the best braking, use new rotors and junk them once they hit the halfway mark, fresh fluid every two races and stock rear rotors/pads.
Demetrius Mossaidis aka 'Mickey' #12 ITA NESCCA
'92 Honda Civic Si
STFU and "Then write a letter. www.crbscca.com"
2013 ITA NARRC Champion and I have not raced since.
To the original poster, if you liked the Blues, you'll love the DTC-60's. Much better feel and consistency. I think a little less aggressive initial bite, but better stopping power over the whole braking event. With the Blues, the rotors were junk when the pads were used up. With the DTC'60's I can double stint rotors.
Did you ever get to try a Honda OEM master cylinder? Did that just help but not solve the problem?
I experience this and also believe it is a heat capacity issue. I can go lower than 50%, probably to 25% or a little less. But it is a pretty abrupt change if I let it go to low.
Jared Cromas
2012-2010 & 2008 Midwestern Council ITA Champion
2008 Midwestern Council Driver of the Year
SCSCC Race Steward
#111 FP/ST '90 Gold/Blk Acura Integra
Yes I did. It helped but the brake pedal and for that matter the braking force isn't there. There is a mechanical problem in the system.
I am going to tear the system apart over the winter and replace a few things. Primarily in the routing.
My current theory is the Teflon stainless steel hoses are at end of life. The pedal will build up pressure just fine with the car off but once the booster kicks the pedal feels awful and my brake zone travel is enormous. One or more of the Teflon lines may have been damage or weakened from heat/age and s bulging under higher pressure loads (IE booster engaged). Going to replace those with a proper kit since the current lines were generic length purchased and are to long.
Also have a "T" joint at my back brake lines that we managed to bleed some air out of. Will be replacing that with a cross and adding a bleeder screw to make this easier to bleed.
Trapped a air bubble as well in my brake bias. Tilton arm adjustable that is a PITA to bleed. Will be changing to a screw type to make it easier to bleed.
May also investigate the prop valve since I do not know its current condition along with the slop in the front calipers which towards the end of the season was getting to be noticeable excessive.
If the brakes are still crap after all of that I am going to buy a anchor with a retractable winch to throw out of the car at braking zones.
-Sean
Thanks all for your input. I will give the DTC-60s a try and see how those feel. I used to use those on my ITA Neon and recall they were a better overall pad than the Blues.
Have heard from many Teg drivers that there's no getting away from the soft pedal feel. This is unfortunate, but something I'll just have to get used to. Nothing lots of seat time won't fix i suppose
#88 ITA Integra
CFR SEDiv
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