Inner tie rod question on a '94 Miata

[Mike Mackaman]

OK, not a IT or SM, just a DD. Got the car for a steal thanks to the previous owner bagging a curb sideways and crunching the left side suspension. The inner tie rod end was removed prior to me picking up the car, so I don't know what it looked like but the new part they supplied with the car appears to have coarse threads and the PS rack looks to have fine threads. Is this the case of PS vs non PS or did they just give me a bogus part?
As an old Nissan guy, I am still learning this zoom zoom stuff, but for $1000 for a car with a good body, no rust, a good top, decent interior, 177K on the clock, running well, I couldn't pass it up. So far it needed a left lower control arm, tie rod end that was included!?!?! A rear upper control arm and a rear cross memeber, oh and two wheels, man they were mangled! So far I have $1300 in it so if I need a different inner tie rod end, the world won't end. From what I have read on SpecMiata.com, I should replace or at least check the lower control arm bolt. Any other ideas?

Mike

[Wreckerboy]

Just stumbled across this so it may be a moot point for you, but the inner tie rods are different between the PS and non-PS versions of the car.

Check the lower control arm bolt at the outside as you suspect, and check both the upper and lower arms for bends. Given the type of hit you suspect it took, the spindle is not a likely candidate, but I have learned that if they bend it is often at the curve in the arm that the outer tie rod connects to.

[Mike Mackaman]

Thanks, the lower control arm bolt was not bent. Everything lined up fine. Car handles great and drives great but is loud, like drivetrain loud, even out of gear. Speed dependent, not rpm dependent. Wondering if the wreck hurt the wheel bearings? The pressure hose on the power steering has a split just as it transitions to rubber from metal coming out of the pump.
The other wierd thing is the truck was full of water after the heavy rain we had yesterday and Monday night. What are the likely culprits?

Overall it drives great and I have about 165 miles on the trip and am down to half tank. Beats 15mpg in my Sierra extended cab!
Mike

[Wreckerboy]

Trunk full of water is likely either the drains in the quarters are clogged (do you hear water sloshing around?) or a leaking seal at the base of the top along the back (this may be called the "rain rail", not really sure). Of course, check the usual suspects like the trunk seal and the taillights as well for possible water entry points.

The wheel bearings on these cars are pretty tough in street use. Sadly, I've replaced lots of control arms due to contact and never a wheel bearing for the same reason. The OE rear wheel bearings went 240K before they got noisy. To check the wheel bearings, jack the car up, grasp the wheel at 12 and 6 and tug. There should be no play. The noise you are describing could well be rear wheel bearings as well. Miata.net is your friend here, but suffice it to say if there is even a hint of rust on the axle splines you're in for a grand old time.

[Mike Mackaman]

I am thinking that the junk tires that are on the car may be the culprit. I have noticed that the roar gets louder if I turn right, loading the left side wheels. But the bearings seem ok by every check I have made, even the drive it for a while and shoot the hub temps with the IR gun. May swap tires side to side and see what it does.

Thanks for the input!
Mike

[Marcus Miller]

Did it hit both front and rear? Could be a rear cv joint/ diff bearing as well.

[Mike Mackaman]

Checked the wheel bearings at 12 and 6 and there is some play.

On the upper front control arm, the ball joint had slid up some. Trying to change it, how the heck do I get the bolt out of the control arm. I have it slid up to the point that it is hitting the weld nut on the sway bar arm. What am i missing? I can't use the hot wrench as I need to reuse it.

Thanks for the help!
Mike

[Wreckerboy]

To take the upper bolt out you need to drop the front sway bar out of the car, which is really simple - four bolts, ten minutes of work. Drop the splash panel first.

Sorry I didn't see this message right away, but I'm not here that often. Email me directly at wreckerboy at g mail dot com

Rob

[Mike Mackaman]

Figured it out, what a PITA! Most of the stuff I see on the Miata makes me admire the engineers. A couple things, like the upper control arm bolt, not so much!

Changed the LF hub last night and it is a little better. I am going to swap some tires around and see what happens.
Mike

[Mike Mackaman]

As the noise got worse, it became obvious that the left rear wheelbearing was also toast. Trying to take it apart was one of those video camera moments. Axle refused to come out, no problem, I will just take the upright out and put it in the press. Lower spindle bolt won't come out, turns out it was bent. Get the axle pressed partway out, try to take the axle nut the rest of the way off, it is stripped now and has to be cut off. Replace the axle and the hub, with the new bearing, and now it is quieter. The junk tires are loud, but I can hear the radio now!

Still a great car and way better milage than my truck! More fun to drive too.