Glen updates?

[StephenB]

Thanks guys! I will check droop tomorrow. I wonder if the shock is damaged? Do you think a bad shock could do that?

Stephen.

PS: rear diff is from a second gen rx7 turbo. Special order through mazdaspeed with a three month wait. I do have someone at a diff/transmission looking at it. Someone smarter than me that knows what they are lookimg at!

[JeffYoung]

Yes, but unlikely. It would literally have to be keeping the wheel from rebounding to the ground and overpowering the spring. Doubtful I think.

But Jake's post got me thinking. Are you running out of suspension travel on that side? Is anything binding? If so, and you are going "infinite wheel rate" you could get spin like that and even with the Torsen (is is a Torsen?) it could act like you had one wheel in the air.

Thanks guys! I will check droop tomorrow. I wonder if the shock is damaged? Do you think a bad shock could do that?

Stephen.

PS: rear diff is from a second gen rx7 turbo. Special order through mazdaspeed with a three month wait. I do have someone at a diff/transmission looking at it. Someone smarter than me that knows what they are lookimg at!

[dj10]

Thanks guys! I will check droop tomorrow. I wonder if the shock is damaged? Do you think a bad shock could do that?

Stephen.

PS: rear diff is from a second gen rx7 turbo. Special order through mazdaspeed with a three month wait. I do have someone at a diff/transmission looking at it. Someone smarter than me that knows what they are lookimg at!

Stephen,
IMO you would have noticed very unusual handling characteristics if the rebound was bound up someway especially on entry and mid off. Jack the car up and put another jack under the rear wheel then jack it up and quickley release it to see how the rebound is set. Do this to each wheel you want to check the rebound on. As you jack the wheel up you can also see or feel how the compression is, of course check for leaks.
Best of luck.

[benspeed]

For some fun, here's the in-car of the qualifying race contact in turn 1. Looks a lot worse in Glen's video.

My car is all fixed with some hillbilly body work :-)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_TnA0ZBuuc[/ame]

[dj10]

Ben what were you thinking watching tha Armco getting closer and closer? :~)

[seckerich]

If you special ordered that diff I would be really disappointed. Very possible if it is the T2 clutch type it is not assembled correctly. If it is a torsen you will be hateing life for years to come in that chassis, they suck for the RX8. Stock Clutch type with a few mods is much better than what you have. When you get it back drop me a line and I will walk you through checking a few things out. Do not waste money throwing parts at the car.

Was the fuel problem the transfer pump?

[StephenB]

If you special ordered that diff I would be really disappointed. Very possible if it is the T2 clutch type it is not assembled correctly. If it is a torsen you will be hateing life for years to come in that chassis, they suck for the RX8. Stock Clutch type with a few mods is much better than what you have. When you get it back drop me a line and I will walk you through checking a few things out. Do not waste money throwing parts at the car.

Was the fuel problem the transfer pump?

I am picking the Diff back up tomorrow. Nothing wrong with it, they said it was in perfect shape. I can't remember exactly what they called it but I think they said it was "gear driven" (I was on the phone with them while multitasking at work). I am now thinking it has to do with the "droop" that a few others mentioned. It is a huge difference between the two sides... almost three inches! Coilovers are NOT set to the same spot.

As far at the sputter... we replaced the pump that was on the right side of the tank because it was not working. (Steve, when you say transfer pump are you refering to this one, the one on the passenger side?) We did not change the primary pump on on the drivers side which is what we are going to do now. I didn't happen to have one or I would have done that at the test day. The fuel pressure was not consistant at all. (Installed a permanent gauge inline that is hooked up just before the fuel rail on fuel test port) The fuel pressure was actually dipping as low as 15-20 when it was sputtering AND the fuel pump was humming extremely loud with inconsistant tone. At the test day this past week we tried plugs, coils, alternater, battery, relays, fuses, and checked voltage/amps for various parts. Nothing worked and we packed up a bit early.

Stephen

Steve, I tried to send a PM but I am not sure it ever worked. feel free to e-mail me or PM me. sblethen "at" RSTPerformance.com

[Greg Amy]

I can't remember exactly what they called it but I think they said it was "gear driven"...

NOT what you want in a race car, especially one with suspension problems... Any kind of gear/helical diff will go fully open unless both wheels are firmly on the ground. Obviously, yours are not (and won't be when, for example, you hit a good bump and/or run over a curb.) This will be an ongoing source of frustration for you.

If some kind of loaded clutch-type diff is available to you, I'd recommend selling that diff to a street car owner and buying one.

GA

[lateapex911]

I can't remember exactly what they called it but I think they said it was "gear driven"....... I am now thinking it has to do with the "droop" that a few others mentioned. It is a huge difference between the two sides... almost three inches! Coilovers are NOT set to the same spot.

Well, THERES your problem!