Woot Finally got the car I was looking for!!

[Griso Gray]

Just Purchaced a 1996 Red Integra GS-R all stock straight and unmolested cant wait to share my build with you guys. Planning on setting up Motec telemerty to help with setup and a M84 for Engine management. I'm sooooo excited right now i can barely contain myself lol.

[Davegt74]

cool sounds like fun

David

[Griso Gray]

Ok started looking around at parts. This is what I have so far

Engine Management:
AEM ems 1000 "had it chilling in my tool box"
AEM Widband guage and sensor "stole it and the cluster guage pod from my wifes car lol"
AEM Short Ram intake
OBD2 to OBD1 conv. harness
Walbro 255 pump

Maintance junk:
Gates raceing T-belt with new pump and pulley
new OE fuel filter
NGK V-power BKR7E-11 and blue wire set
New OE "Honda/TEC" Cap and Rotor
Radiator hoses and bulk replacemnt heater hose
Previously Tortured Fluidyne radiator

Engine Parts: "have not ordered any of this stuff yet going to drive on the street for a bit and get some stuff sorted"
JE 10:1 0.040" oversize Forged Pistons
Honda OEM Gasket kit
Honda OEM Oil Pump
Guides and Valves
ARP Head studs
Bearings "Will have to color code or just get generics"

Trans:
ACT Mod clutch disc with Heavy duty Presure Plate
New Release Bearing and Pilot Bearing
M-Factory LSD
"Will eventually get Carbon Syncros and a diffrent final drive ratio gear set"

Suspention"
ASR 23mm rear swaybar "Will upgrade to the 32mm if needed"
D2 coilovers "will have to get diffrent springs"
Enegery Suspention master kit and trailing arm bushings
MOOG replacement balljoints

Brake:
Russell S/S brake hoses
Hawk Blue front and rear pads
Integra RS brake hard lines and 40/40 prop valve "ABS Delete"
ATE Blue racing fluid


Ugg just looking at this stuff makes my knuckles hurt. Thankfully I have alot of the really Spendy stuff sitting around from my boss and my old Drag car days. Will post pics as soon as I get some time to get started on the suspention. Hopeing to do a few track days with the car before I get serious about the Cage/Seat mounting.

Any Suggestions on Springs, wheels and tires would be great! Thanks in Advance....

[Bob Roth]

I would avoid going with a solid underdrive pulley as there is no dampening in them. See endyne's comments. http://www.theoldone.com/components/fluidampr/

Also, get a roadrace trapped such as a moroso roadrace oil pan and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and a shift light. Get some 15 x 7 rims, Kosei K1 are good options. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...odel=K1+Racing

[Griso Gray]

Ohh no underdrive pulley was talking about the tensioner. YES bad things happen w/o a dampened crank pulley. I dont think it would pass tech anyways did not see it mentioned in the GCR.

Yes the shift light will be eventually be a Dash setup like the AiM, MoTec or just an LED light bar.

Were a MoTec dealer so i'm kinda a fanboy

Know anything about the Canton Road race pan? I like the extra shelf it has above the main sump.

Those wheels look like 38MM offset with 5.50" backspace. Good Tiresize?? 205/50/15?

[mc-integra111]

Ohh no underdrive pulley was talking about the tensioner. YES bad things happen w/o a dampened crank pulley.

I have never experienced this. Honda/Acura engines are internally balanced, so a balancer and/or harmonic damper is not necessary. Bob, the article you linked to is nice, but remember it is from a company that makes harmonic dampers. Unorthodox Racing will have a similar article about why a solid damper is OK (which, technically you shouldn't necessarily believe either since they sell solid dampers). Get out to the track and talk to other racers to get the real story. Bob is pretty experienced, so he may have some personal experience to supplement his suggestion...

I dont think it would pass tech anyways did not see it mentioned in the GCR.

Tech doesn't really care about your damper and if your engine blows up, only safety and legality. Since you haven't posted a desired class, I can't say if a solid pulley is legal. Crank pulleys are free in IT now (only the drive type must remain stock). If you post a desired class, there are plenty of people on here knowledgable about SCCA and/or MC classes, and would be happy to help you with rules questions.

[Xian]

Ok started looking around at parts. This is what I have so far

Engine Management:
AEM ems 1000 "had it chilling in my tool box"
AEM Widband guage and sensor "stole it and the cluster guage pod from my wifes car lol"
AEM Short Ram intake
OBD2 to OBD1 conv. harness
Walbro 255 pump

Maintance junk:
Gates raceing T-belt with new pump and pulley
new OE fuel filter
NGK V-power BKR7E-11 and blue wire set
New OE "Honda/TEC" Cap and Rotor
Radiator hoses and bulk replacemnt heater hose
Previously Tortured Fluidyne radiator

Engine Parts: "have not ordered any of this stuff yet going to drive on the street for a bit and get some stuff sorted"
JE 10:1 0.040" oversize Forged Pistons
Honda OEM Gasket kit
Honda OEM Oil Pump
Guides and Valves
ARP Head studs
Bearings "Will have to color code or just get generics"

Trans:
ACT Mod clutch disc with Heavy duty Presure Plate
New Release Bearing and Pilot Bearing
M-Factory LSD
"Will eventually get Carbon Syncros and a diffrent final drive ratio gear set"

Suspention"
ASR 23mm rear swaybar "Will upgrade to the 32mm if needed"
D2 coilovers "will have to get diffrent springs"
Enegery Suspention master kit and trailing arm bushings
MOOG replacement balljoints

Brake:
Russell S/S brake hoses
Hawk Blue front and rear pads
Integra RS brake hard lines and 40/40 prop valve "ABS Delete"
ATE Blue racing fluid


Ugg just looking at this stuff makes my knuckles hurt. Thankfully I have alot of the really Spendy stuff sitting around from my boss and my old Drag car days. Will post pics as soon as I get some time to get started on the suspention. Hopeing to do a few track days with the car before I get serious about the Cage/Seat mounting.

Any Suggestions on Springs, wheels and tires would be great! Thanks in Advance....

Double check the rules for your wiring conversion and pay particular rules to any of the ancillary components you have to swap out to get it all to work (i.e. distributor).

10:1 custom pistons? Not sure if that's stock CR but it's gotta have the OE profile/dimensions. Can go higher on compression per rules but I thought that was typically via shaving the head. Not sure that you can do so via pistons. You'll want custom cam gears to bring the timing back to spec.

I'd talk to Steve Eckerich about one of his diff's... could also get one from the guys at OPM too.

Carbon syncros aren't legal... OE type parts only.

You'll want more rear bar. Seriously.

I know nothing about the coilovers... Koni's with GC perches are a great option too. Much more turn-key and probably easier to get close with the valving right off the bat. You'll want a bunch of spring up front and even more in the back.

ES Poly bushings aren't the end of the world but sphericals are better. Chris Brinson makes some amazing parts for the DC chassis that nobody else has developed. You can find some of his stuff in the Fabrication Forum over on roadraceautox.com. Also take a look at the big rear trailing arm spherical bearings...

Look at Raybestos ST-43 pads for the front. Great stuff.

Tires... 225/45 15 Hoosier R6's. They'll fit just fine on 15x7's.

I'm sure it's on your list but you'll want new hubs/bearings and then want to watch/replace them on a pretty regular basis. Plan to do it annually.

Plan to add some sort of proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

On the lightweight crank pulley... don't believe all the hype. You can swap out to a non-damped design and not have any issues. You'll want to balance the entire lower rotating assembly with the flywheel/PP installed.

There's some good gains to be made in exhaust/header and intake design/length. Off the shelf stuff will get you close but not all the way there.

Best of luck!

Christian

[Griso Gray]

The Class i'm shooting for is SCCA ITS. Great Feedback!

I reconcidered the D2 Coilovers and have setteled on KsportRR 2way non-remote coilovers they come with what ever spring rate that you wish to order them with. Will probably start with 700front and 1000rear. But will most likely have to go heavyer.

Yes i'm thinking that the 32MM ASR upgrade will be a must have.

On the Pistons I called JE and they have sayed that the dimentions are indentical to the stock replacements but i will have to verify this for myself.

Was concidering a Bisimoto or Hytech header with a 2.5" exahst system.

Good point on the hubs and bearings will be a must during the suspention rebuild. Think ARP wheel studs are worth the money?? Or just get replacements during my drag racing days we did put extended length ARP or Blox studs just for an extra saftey factor.

[Xian]

Figured that it was ITS based on the car...

I'd seriously recommend looking at a shock with a stronger motorsports background... KSports aren't the droid you're looking for. Koni/Moton/JRZ/Penske... yes. Your rates are in the right range to start with assuming you go with the big rear bar. If your car starts to eat axles, then it's too low and/or needs more front wheel rate (via spring or bar).

Both Bisi and Hytech make good stuff or get one of the availabile exhaust simulators and give your specs to Burns.

I prefer extended ARP style studs as they're easier to work with and swap wheels onto.

Read the rules a couple more times and then post questions before you buy parts so you don't end up with something you can't use!

Christian

edit & PS:
I thought I saw some info on KSports before... take a look at the differences in valving from one shock to another.


Lifted from: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?123666252-Truth-about-K-Sports[/URL]