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Thread: Woot Finally got the car I was looking for!!

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  1. #1

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    Quote Originally Posted by Griso Gray View Post
    Holy Smokes Yeah the Koni type 2800 series Dampers are about as good as it gets but 1000+ dollars per corner . Mabee i'll save up enough for them in time lol.

    Thinking the Koni"RACE" series shocks are going to have to be what i'm looking for. Along with some Ground control adjusters. I'm going to have to dust off the Geometry book and figure out what springs and in what style i'll be looking for. Mains and helpers or mains and tenders or just mains assuming that these race shocks don't have a ton of droop.

    Ok cage question would an autopower cage be a good place to start and just add in extra bars? I know I have a metric ton of saftey items to worry about this winter Seat, belts, Window net, Hans device, Suit ,underwear ,gloves ,socks ,boots ect.
    Koni RACE will be just fine. They win lots of races. Get the Koni threaded sleeves, they are a little nicer than the Ground Control ones, IMO. Just main springs. Get the spacers with your koni sleeves to run 2.5" springs. 2.25s are a tiny bit lighter, but used 2.5s are EVERYWHERE for cheap.

    Cage: Assuming you have welding skills, for a GSR I actually think I'd call Kirk Racing in Alabama and get them to send you a "You weld it" kit. They've done lots of GSR cages, and the last one I saw was very nice and very strong. If you DON'T have welding skills, the people here can point you to a good cage guy near you.
    Bowie Gray
    ITA Miata


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Greenfield, MA
    Posts
    397

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    Where are you located? There are some cage guys in the North East that do incredible work, know the IT rules Re: cages and won't break the bank. My personal favorite is Matt Kessler.
    Stephanie Funk
    <Couple of NARRC and NERRC bragging things here>
    HP Honda CRX in progress, ITB Honda Civic, ITA Honda CRX, ITC Honda CRX
    "Green Booger Racing"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    451

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    Still not too late to buy instead of build.
    -----------------------
    Jarrod Igou
    ITR/STU BMW 325i, #92
    Des Moines Valley Region

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,391

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    welcome to the fun...

    GSR parts are everywhere. this is a good and bad thing for you, as there are good and bad parts available. don't be affraid to ask if you don't know the quality of a part - remember that what roadracing needs is different from drag racing in terms of suspension, brakes, and pretty much everything else, so don't expect that good experiences with a product in a strait line will necessarily corelate to good success on the road race track, though in many cases they do. you have seen a lot of good feedback already.

    I'll add comments about brake pads: Hawk makes a newer line called DTC. you'll likely enjoy the DTC-60s. porterfields are known to be good as well, and there are good compounds from carbotech and cobalt, and others. Hawk Blues are the old standard, and while they work well, newer compounds are better in a lot of ways including feel, modulation, wear, and rotor friendliness.

    harmonic dampers - you will have better throttle response without, but theoretically better engine life with. we've eaten an oil pump over the bumpy paving at sebring but I don't know that a damper would have helped that. supposedly you will see more peak HP on a dyno with a damper but the acceleration decrease will tend to hurt you more on a road course.

    engine wiring is a strange topic these days. certain sensors can be added or replaced (MAP, TPS) while others must be equivalent to stock. crank position can only be used where it was available as stock, and distributor internals are open, but you must use the distributor to dole out the spark to the cylinders as was done from the factory. you may use a OBD1-2 adapter to your ECU or even rewire from a MoTec to the engine so long as you keep the stock harness in the car and use only the stock or allowed alternate sensors. you'll find that distributor signals fluctuate due to the belt drive, and it's often easier to go to a lower resolution signal than a higher one to avoid the noise. make sure you read the GCR, particularly the ITCS before cutting anything.

    Remember the golden rule in IT is "IIDSYCYC" (If It Doesn't Say You Can, You Can't). there's a lot of performance paradigms that IT breaks. be aware - and when in doubt, ask.

    post some pics and keep us updated!
    Last edited by Chip42; 08-02-2011 at 10:39 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    734

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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerBowie View Post
    Koni RACE will be just fine. They win lots of races.
    This ^^^. There are certainly better dampers out there but not at this price point.

    x2 on the 2.5" springs... they're cheap and plentiful.
    Christian in FL | Something white with Honda on the valve cover...
    FASTtech Limited- DL1, Schroth, & Recaro Goodness
    LTB Motorsports- The Cheapest Place for Momo
    TrackSpeed Motorsports- OMP, Racetech, & Driver Gear

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    LaCrosse Wis
    Posts
    302

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    Be careful in thinking about pulley's. Dampening is different than balancing. I agree that the engines are ballanced, that's not what the pulley dampening is there for. In my years, I saw a B18 World challenge motor break a crank shaft, also saw my B16 fail an oil pump, both with solid pulleys. I have also seen a stock honda dampened pulley fail due to the rubber shearing. (ps - If you ever have a mysterious overheating problem, make sure your pulley isn't sheared!)

    I'm involved in the area of industrial compressor designs, all I know is undampened vibrations can grow to huge levels. After reading Larry's article, his reasoning made perfect sense to me. Perhaps the pulley is overkill, but we are focused on endurance racing and not very tolerant about breaking things.
    Last edited by Bob Roth; 08-09-2011 at 08:16 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,391

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Roth View Post
    (ps - If you ever have a mysterious overheating problem, make sure your pulley isn't sheared!)
    good advise generally but not on a honda - WP is Tbelt driven.

    how's the build coming along?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    LaCrosse Wis
    Posts
    302

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    The engine that was overheating was a K motor TSX. I believe they have a serpentine belt. Sorry for the confusion. Too many honda's to keep track of!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    14

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    My boss is donating a ATI Superdamper to the "cause" I also dug up an AEM PS underdrive pulley from the depths of my Toolbox!

    I'm in process of reworking my suspention bushings getting ready for the Shock/Spring/Swaybar/Balljoint/Hub/Wheelbearing/Stud/replacement. Next will be Header/Pipes then Tires and Wheels hopefully hit a Track day session if MAM is not still under water. Before the snow flies. I'll get some pics up as soon as i have somthing fun to photo.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    451

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    Quote Originally Posted by Griso Gray View Post
    My boss is donating a ATI Superdamper to the "cause" I also dug up an AEM PS underdrive pulley from the depths of my Toolbox!

    I'm in process of reworking my suspention bushings getting ready for the Shock/Spring/Swaybar/Balljoint/Hub/Wheelbearing/Stud/replacement. Next will be Header/Pipes then Tires and Wheels hopefully hit a Track day session if MAM is not still under water. Before the snow flies. I'll get some pics up as soon as i have somthing fun to photo.
    Griso, where do you live?
    -----------------------
    Jarrod Igou
    ITR/STU BMW 325i, #92
    Des Moines Valley Region

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