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Thread: Storing Spare Calipers

  1. #1
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    Default Storing Spare Calipers

    I have some calipers removed from my Honda that were replaced with rebuilt pieces. I want to save/store the removed calipers as "spares". Since the had brake fluid in them and it is really hydroscopic (sp?), I am concerned about moisture in the piston/cylinder bore causing rust and making them unusable.

    Any suggestions on the best way to store these, short of disassembly. I have sprayed brake cleaner into the calipers to remove the bulk of the brake fluid but am not sure if that is sufficient.

    Thanks,
    Rory

  2. #2
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    I would advocate actually filling them up with brake fluid, plugging the fitting holes snugly to keep air from getting in, and storing them in plastic sealed bags.

  3. #3
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    If you have access to one of those vacuum baggers for storing food in the freezer, they work great for this. Vacuum and seal the bag and your good to go. When my wife upgraded to a larger unit for the kitchen, I grabbed the old unit for my shop for just this purpose.
    2002 Cen-Div ITC Champ
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  4. #4
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    I actually would not spray brake cleaner into the calipers. that stuff is really bad for the caliper seals.

    I store mine "loose" -- so long as they are not getting water on them, and you are using them on a fairly regular basis, you should be ok without doing anything drastic.

    Quote Originally Posted by backformore View Post
    I have some calipers removed from my Honda that were replaced with rebuilt pieces. I want to save/store the removed calipers as "spares". Since the had brake fluid in them and it is really hydroscopic (sp?), I am concerned about moisture in the piston/cylinder bore causing rust and making them unusable.

    Any suggestions on the best way to store these, short of disassembly. I have sprayed brake cleaner into the calipers to remove the bulk of the brake fluid but am not sure if that is sufficient.

    Thanks,
    Rory
    NC Region
    1980 ITS Triumph TR8

  5. #5
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    I made "plugs" for mine out of old hard lines, cut and folded/pinched shut.

    K

  6. #6
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    Wd-40?
    dick patullo
    ner scca IT7 Rx7

  7. #7
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    I would fill them with fluid and cap the lines as well.
    alternatively, you could completely clean them, rebuild the pistons with brake assembly lube, then reassemble them "dry". stick them in a plastic bag with dessicant and box them.

    that said, every caliper I've bought from a parts store simply has a plastic plug shoved in the hole, or it has nothing.. and I'm sure they sit on the shelf for weeks/months/years at a time somewhere.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post
    I would fill them with fluid and cap the lines as well.
    alternatively, you could completely clean them, rebuild the pistons with brake assembly lube, then reassemble them "dry". stick them in a plastic bag with dessicant and box them.

    that said, every caliper I've bought from a parts store simply has a plastic plug shoved in the hole, or it has nothing.. and I'm sure they sit on the shelf for weeks/months/years at a time somewhere.

    I have always rebuilt mine using "brake grease" on the seals & boots as well as the piston & piston bore. I then insert pulgs in the threaded opening for the brake fluid line and a cap on the bleeder. They will last years this way in my basement.

    I never put them in plastic bags with dessicant but that would be a very good idea if you are taking them to the track as spares and then store them in your garage between races.
    1988 ITA Scriocco 16V #80
    MCSCC member since 1988

  9. #9
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    I have always rebuilt mine using "brake grease" on the seals & boots as well as the piston & piston bore
    How does the brake grease differ from other petroleum based greases or oils?

    Curious as most greases or oils are good at keeping bare steel from blushing when they get wet from temperature changes. Stored parts in the NE usually end up seeing some big swings in both temperature and humidity unless you're keeping them in climate controlled areas which might be why the parts stores do OK w/ the calipers just being bare & dry.

  10. #10
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    Yeah, that was one of the things I was wondering about as well--- what kind of temp controls do these parts warehouses have?

    Down here in Houston area, stuff rusts in minutes if left outside. I have a $1500 stack of Coleman Racing rotors that are junk because I left them at the base of the garage door (inside the garage) overnight after unloading the truck. Went out the next morning to find a place to stick them in the garage, and they were already covered in surface rust. DOH.

    I'm not sure what's in the caliper grease stuff, but it's supposed to be good for the seals and whatnot. I wonder if it's a silicone base instead of a petroleum base..
    http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...al-grease.html

    Based on that, then yeah it's just silicone grease. We use Dow 111 silicone grease all the time at work for o-ring lube on all of our subsea equipment.

    You can buy it for about $13 a tube at McMaster..
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#silicone-grease/=czrsi9
    not exactly cheap, but one tube will last eons and you can use it for just about anything on the car with rubber in it.
    Houston Region
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post

    Down here in Houston area, stuff rusts in minutes if left outside. I have a $1500 stack of Coleman Racing rotors that are junk because I left them at the base of the garage door (inside the garage) overnight after unloading the truck.

    No problem with a bit of surface rust on a rotor. Scour it off with a rotary pad or you can run it as is and the pads will do the work for you. I've put on some fairly rusty rotors with no issue although I would have chosen to sand them or even turn them down if I'd had the option.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMiskoe View Post
    How does the brake grease differ from other petroleum based greases or oils?
    I don't think it's a slicone grease. But a standard petroleum grease that may have some additives that makes it compatable with rubber.
    I have found it packed in some caliper rebuild kits and have even been able to buy some in a 4-5 oz tube. It was made by a major brake parts maker. It's not a common item.
    1988 ITA Scriocco 16V #80
    MCSCC member since 1988

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Earp View Post
    No problem with a bit of surface rust on a rotor. Scour it off with a rotary pad or you can run it as is and the pads will do the work for you. I've put on some fairly rusty rotors with no issue although I would have chosen to sand them or even turn them down if I'd had the option.
    Yeah, I wouldn't have a problem putting them on my car. the issue is they were brake kits I was building and offering for sale. Can't sell them as "perfect and new" when they look like they've been dunked in the ocean for a month.
    Houston Region
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  14. #14
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    Pro Brake Systems (Brembo USA) recommends Dow 111 grease and Pegasus Racing & Hoerr Racing Products offer PBR brake grease. Rebuild with grease and store dry vs. filled with brake fluid, less mess.

    Brembo also recently released brake seal conditioning fluid

    http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
    Last edited by rsportvolvo; 07-15-2011 at 04:36 PM. Reason: added Brembo SCF info
    David Russell
    IT Volvo 242

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