Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: mk1 suspension

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    147

    Default DIY spherical bushings

    I've been thinking for some time about doing this myself, but it's low on my list of priorities. Shouldn't be too hard, you just need something like a Uni-Ball Weld Cup of the appropriate size and then a section of DOM turned to the correct size to take up the space between the Uni-Ball Weld Cup and the control arm. I've done a lot of research and the trick is finding the appropriate size Uni-Ball weld cup so the ID of the DOM tube matches the OD of the Uni-Ball weld cup. Then only the OD of the DOM tube needs to be turned down to the ID of the control arm bushing hole. Then just weld the three pieces together. I think it could be done for about $80 in parts and about two hours labor, with judicious part selection to minimize machining.

    Oh, and I don't think that sphericals make much sense on a Mk1, would be a lot more beneficial on the Mk2 Pt H bushing.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    FL.
    Posts
    1,384

    Default

    I have used "Jeep" pilot shaft bushings in the MK 1 LCA. I braze them in the lower front Inner LCA points. Works fine. If you choose your bushing properly , you should find one that can be turned down to offest the hole a little.( Imoved mine up and out a bit.)
    Remember that the LCA is pretty weak and bends at slight impact. Spending a lot of love there, will surely lead to the Karma return of a slight wheel to wheel interface and bend your artwork.
    Just grease the bolt every 5 races. MM
    Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    292

    Default

    I will check the jeep parts out, cool!!
    FIBI/Bilstein LCAs only!!!!! I received a mayle once, it had 1/2 the welds, and was lighter... I wouldn't put in on a daily driver.....

    $80 in parts a? the LCAs are $100 for a good pair... BRGs are $80-$120....

    The compression of a rubber/poly is allot when loaded, it changes camber and toe... so you require more -camber, the get a good contact patch, the less you can have the better braking in a straight line....
    ______________
    Waterhaus Racing is Back!
    NRSCCA Competition Chair
    BOG Member
    "Nebraska organizing committees
    to race in Iowa & Ne board thing "
    Still working on a name...
    X-MVRG Member...
    ITB Rabbit/ITA Miata

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Vernon,BC,Canada
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Guys, THANKS again!

    Last year was my first attempt(incomplete) at prepping road racing a VW and Im seeing there is lots I don't know, lol. Ice racing ain't quite the same.

    Looks like I had bits and pieces figured out about the spherical, specifically the stepper bushing, as I found out finding suitable metric stuff is pricey, but most of it was new info. Thanks.

    This info just ain't around in western Canada.

    John

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    292

    Default

    How long is your racing season in Canada?

    Well I was a newbie once, and I got a lot of help from other racers.. Even the guy you race against want you out there, kicking ass! even if its their ass...

    #1 rule of racing: Nothing is free, you change one thing it will effect something else.. Except weight.... lighter is always better!
    ______________
    Waterhaus Racing is Back!
    NRSCCA Competition Chair
    BOG Member
    "Nebraska organizing committees
    to race in Iowa & Ne board thing "
    Still working on a name...
    X-MVRG Member...
    ITB Rabbit/ITA Miata

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Vernon,BC,Canada
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Road racing on asphalt starts up usually end of March(early April this year) to about mid/late October, at least here on the west coast. Ice racing usually runs mid January - early March weather depending, some parts of Canada you could go until late May..

    Can't agree more with competitors helping me out - my first race in the rocco last year didn't go so smoothly(wrong bolt holding lbj to spindle=separation) and I'd hardly pushed the car into the stall and I was swarmed by ICSCC guys wanting to help out. I was ready to load the trailer, instead I was ready to go in an hour and a half.
    Made a big impression on me and I hope to emulate the same.

    The weight thing, lol, I swapped out the rear discs to drums to save about 12 lbs and it hit me that I could do with losing the same amount personally.

    Cheers'

    John
    Last edited by jrez; 03-10-2011 at 04:25 AM.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Vernon,BC,Canada
    Posts
    21

    Default

    just wanted to add some feedback since I ran my car at the track, with the 450f/600r, big autotech front bar/no rear bar.
    Much better than last year, car is much flatter and gently over steers when under power(lsd), some thing it never did before. I do still feel that the car could be stiffer as it does feel like it rolls a little too much still.
    What spring rates would you guys recommend if I don't want to run any arb's? I should also mention that my home track is quite tight, but I do plan on hitting pacific raceway and portland in the future.

    Generally happy with how the car feels, just want to tighten it up. http://gerryfrechette.zenfolio.com/p...7ca6#h23c17ca6

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw_mbwoEqwQ"]home track[/ame]







    Last edited by jrez; 07-13-2011 at 11:24 PM.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •