"Mentor" sought for 1985 IT-A Rx-7 builder/driver

[G-Man]

I'm looking for some wise and experienced help with my IT-A 1985 Rx-7, please. No need to get dirty or take late-night calls! Perhaps someone has built/campaigned one and wants tp help a novice create a stable, reliable car?

Building a learning platform, not the fastest car. Want to learn to be a good, smooth race driver (after time trials and track days and five races in other cars).

Car has Illumina shocks, Ground Control springs (rears look progressive - marked GCR-7RR), and does not have a Tri-Link. It was originally a "Pro7" out of California, built around 1998.

I may have to replace the shocks and may want to replace springs. Looking for some wisdom on what works well. Of course, very limited budget.

I race in Colorado - Pueblo Motorsports Park, Pikes Peak International Raceway, and the new High Plains Raceway (our pride and joy!).

Thank you in advance for the help and guidance. I promise to correctly pronounce your name when the FIA gives me the "Better than Michael Schumacher Award."
G-Man

[lateapex911]

Best single bit of advice to understand your car:
Call Jim Susko and buy his set up book. It aint cheap, but, the advice and science are solid and totally practical.

Some random thoughts, other than that:

• Consider a tri link setup. It makes life better.
• If going with new shocks, contact Lee Grimes of koni, mention my name. He'll set you up.
• Make sure you have a good radiator. Block the hole under the thermostat with a 1/2" NPT plug. Remove the thermostat.
• Never overheat it.
• Make sure you have good oil cooling. Ditch the beehive thing and get a real cooler if you don't have one already.
• Get a good supply of fresh air to your brakes. Use good pads like Hawk blue black or carbotechs. Balance front rear with compound or a prop valve.
• Don't rush your shifts. The transmissions are fine, unless you bang the shift or are clumsy.
• Gas tanks rust. Keep a close eye on it. Run clear fuel filters. Consider a cell.
• Make sure you send the carb the right pressure. About 3PSI. Use a Carter(?)Holley(?) pump with an internal regulator, and a secondary regulator near the carb to fine tune it. Use another clear filter just before the carb or regulator.
• You can rev it to 8, but it really doesn't breath well up there.
• Use good oil, change regularly.
• You can leave the oil squirter things in, but use premix always.
• They like good rear gears and a posi. 4.88 is a popular choice, but get a graph and figure it out for the tracks you'll run.
• Tires: See Jims book, but I run 220/45/13. other sizes can work, but think it through then stick with it, because you'll set the car up around the tire size.

• As for judging yourself in the car, don't be frustrated if top drawer ITA cars own you. On the other hand, a good RX-7 is capable of a decent finish in a tough ITA field.

Good luck!
(If you need specifics like part numbers, just ask)

[Andy Bettencourt]

Tires: See Jims book, but I run 220/45/13. other sizes can work, but think it through then stick with it, because you'll set the car up around the tire size.

And this is why Jake is so fast. He has his own tire size.

Great post Jake. What makes IT.com valuable. Nary a mention of a washer bottle too!

[G-Man]

Jake's post got me thinking: When we shave tires, maybe we should do the sidewalls?
Thank you for your help, Jake, Andy, and the folks who have PM'ed me.

I do have a good, big radiator. Will check t-stat.
Car runs the early model under-radiator oil cooler.
I've seen Jim's impressive book.
Making an airdam for brake cooling and radiator flow - have the Mazdacomp rotor ducts. Hawk blue fronts, black rears for now, with cockpit bias adjuster.
Car has the Carter/Holley pump/regulator setup. I run 1oz two-stroke oil per gallon of fuel, normally pump gas or 100LL avgas to avoid vapor lock (5,000' ASL and 100-plus track temps).
Running the Kia Sportage 4.77 LSD.
Front springs 400lbs/in, rears are 175 or 200 lbs/inch. Considering stiffer rears - any suggestions on sources?
What make/model tire do you like?
As a newbie, I wonder if the tri-link $$ is better spent on seat time and coaching?
Can you explain what you mean by "the hole under the thermostat" - is that where a temp sender used to be?
Do folks leave in the factory underhood proportioning valve?
What's a "good oil" - synthetic or not? What weight?
What are the "never exceed" oil and water temps, with temp senders mounted where?
Thanks for the help!

[mbuskuhl]

Can you explain what you mean by "the hole under the thermostat" - is that where a temp sender used to be?

When you take the thermostat out, you will see about a 1/2" hole. When the thermostat is open it blocks the bypass hole, by removing the thermostat you need to block the bypass hole with a 1/2" NPT plug yourself. You don't want the water to "bypass" your radiator.

Do folks leave in the factory underhood proportioning valve?

It is recommended to remove the factory prop valve if installing an adjustable prop valve in the car.

What's a "good oil" - synthetic or not? What weight?

There's a million opinions on brand. If using oil metering pump (OMP), then no synthetic. If disabled, synthetic is fine. 20w50.

What are the "never exceed" oil and water temps, with temp senders mounted where?

According to MazdaComp...

Water, taken at pump outlet, 160-195, 205 max.
Oil, taken in pan, 195-230, max 250.

There are other opinions on these numbers.

[Dano77]

Google bluecoilspring.com, Rear RX7 springs are 5 in by 8in tall

List is around 55 bucks or pay Susko 75+ for the red dot spring in the SSS boxes