New CRX in West Michigan

**Steven McWilliams Jr** · 11-09-2010, 01:05 PM

I use a DefNder as well. I don't have the same problem that jimbo has though. Mine is comfortable, and don't even notice it. It has the bars on the side that protect you from side impacts, which the HANS does not. Also, the DefNder has adjustable angles if you ever want to get into a different type of car. Ex: I used my defNder switch from my FV to my ITA Civic, HANS users would just have to buy a whole new system. Good luck, IT racing is fun!

Steven

**dhardison** · 11-09-2010, 02:32 PM

+3 for the DefNder. I don't have a bird-chest like Jim so it fits me just fine and I don't even notice it's there.

**boywonder** · 11-09-2010, 11:04 PM

I have a HANS and have been using it in IT and rally for the past three years without issue, but we also have winged seats in both cars for lateral protection. We've taken some big hits landing jumps in the rally car and I've tried moving walls with my ITC CRX a few times and my neck has never been sore afterward.

**Bob Roth** · 11-12-2010, 09:14 PM

With the brake lines, the key is that they not get into the rims and get cut and also that they be long enough that they not go solid at full lock, droop or compression and get the ends ripped out (then you really will need a Hans device). If they are old and not showing wear I would not change them. I've never seen a SS line wear out. If you are concerned though, make sure they are tied down in a way that allows suitable droop and for peace of mind, buy a length of fuel hose, split it and use it to wrap the line to protect it where you are worried about it hitting the shocks etc.

**darthmonkeyIT** · 12-28-2010, 09:36 PM

Hello! Been a few weeks and I haven't had a chance to post updates and more questions! This crazy holiday season, who's idea was this to make it so busy?

More work has been done on the CRX! The timing belt has been changed, water pump replaced, negative battery cable replaced, radiator hoses replaced, battery purchased, and I have the parts (mostly) to get all the small bits and seals fixed.

Ran into a snag though. I pulled the shocks off and got them dynoed to see where they are at. The rear shocks are in excellent shape. The front shocks...not so much. The front right is OK but not in the greatest shape. The Left front is broken entirely. The shock begins to cycle and then you can hear air being sucked in as it actuates and will not build rebound pressure. We believe a shim has broken inside the shock. The design of the shock does not make them serviceable to fix this issue from what we and the shock specialist I took them to can tell. They are part of a GAB coil over kit and are KYB shocks.

I plan on just sticking with the rear shocks since they are in very good shape. The fronts will need to be replaced. I have read a few posts on the KONI race shocks with GC coil over setup. I have also heard good things about Bilsteins. A friend mentioned the KONI yellows but I am not sure if those would stand up to the wear and tear of racing.

The Koni race shocks need a separate kit purchased for the coil over setup (GC/Koni coil over)? I have springs that will do fine but I need them in a coil over configuration.

Thanks!

**darthmonkeyIT** · 03-28-2011, 10:56 AM

Greetings!

Finishing up prep on the CRX doing the final cage work before drivers school at Blackhawk end of next month.

Couple questions:

1) Brake pad material for the rears discs. From what I have read the brakes in the rear are minimal to non exsistent and I have seen more then a few people running stock / autozone pads. My racing mentor questioned this and asked that I triple check there. Ergo, here I am.

2) Directing airflow onto the front brakes. I have looked into a few setups for this and am not sure where I should put the air. Some have aimed it right at the caliper itself and others have said to aim it at the front wheel bearing to get the air to go out through the rotor.

3) For my first season I am running on Nitto NT01's. Any advice on how cold / hot pressure and what kind of cambre they can handle? Someone who has run these on a CRX would be considered my new best friend!

I have browsed the forums for related answers and found a few. Mostly looking for some newbie advice for a indecisive newbie.

Thank you!

-Sean

**JLawton** · 03-28-2011, 12:30 PM

Originally Posted by darthmonkeyIT

Greetings!

Finishing up prep on the CRX doing the final cage work before drivers school at Blackhawk end of next month.

Couple questions:

1) Brake pad material for the rears discs. From what I have read the brakes in the rear are minimal to non exsistent and I have seen more then a few people running stock / autozone pads. My racing mentor questioned this and asked that I triple check there. Ergo, here I am.

2) Directing airflow onto the front brakes. I have looked into a few setups for this and am not sure where I should put the air. Some have aimed it right at the caliper itself and others have said to aim it at the front wheel bearing to get the air to go out through the rotor.

3) For my first season I am running on Nitto NT01's. Any advice on how cold / hot pressure and what kind of cambre they can handle? Someone who has run these on a CRX would be considered my new best friend!

I have browsed the forums for related answers and found a few. Mostly looking for some newbie advice for a indecisive newbie.

Thank you!

-Sean

1) I buy the cheapest NAPA rear pads they make. The LAST thing you want to happen is have the rears lock up before the fronts which could happen if you have too aggressive of a compound. (ever yank on the parking brake at 60 MPH?)

Remember, on a FWD car, the rear wheels are only there to keep the gas tank off the road!

2) Don't worry about ducting on a CRX. I would think it VERY difficult to over heat the brakes on one of those. There are IT cars that weigh a LOT more than the CRX (like 500 lbs more) and don't use ducting.

3) can't help you there!

Good luck with the school. let us know how you make out!

**Chip42** · 03-28-2011, 12:45 PM

from our experience - "good" street pads for the rear are all you need. I wouldn't get crap pads just because I'd worry about them falling apart, and you need them to be there to build hydrualic pressure in the system.

ducting - it's not "needed" but it can help, particularly in the summer. the car isn't that heavy but the brakes aren't that big, either. front calipers tend to develope a warp that will wear your pads at an angle. new slide bushings and bolts usually fix this. for that reason, and since it can be hard to get air to the hub center with the shock/fork and axle in the way, we blow at the backside of the caliper/rotor. fresh cool air does get to the hub, and the caliper stays a little cooler, too.

no data on the nittos, sorry.

**tom91ita** · 04-02-2011, 09:38 AM

Sean,

what pads are you running up front? i have heard that blackhawk is hard on brakes even on 1st gen crx's.

remember that for a school, they are looking for car control and awareness and not aggressive, blistering times.

do you have crew for this? there is a lot going on at a school and just having someone going over the car and checking tire pressures, lugnuts, fluids, etc. is a major help because you need to be conferring with your instructor, etc.

there are some ef-honda.com crx guys (2009 GRM Challenge winners-Team Gutty) around chicago and grand rapids that might be able to help.

good luck!

tom

(grand rapids-kalamazoo commuter....)

Team Gutty:

http://ef-honda.com/main/viewtopic.php?t=40152

**darthmonkeyIT** · 04-02-2011, 05:59 PM