In the market for a new race car

[RacerBill]

OK, I'm ready to bite the bullet and jump into the market for a different race car. This one will be a ready-to-race. I have already had the build-it experience. Budget is extremely limited. ITA, B or C is ok, got lots of friends to race with in all classes.

Classified on IT Forum and Racingjunk.com look very thin.

Anybody know of anything on the market?

[cjb25hs]

If you are interested in dark beer and kraut
https://improvedtouring.com...ad.php?t=28398

If you want to be loyal to the MOPAR roots
https://improvedtouring.com...ad.php?t=28408

[RacerBill]

Thanks. I looked at both of those, and a little out of my price range (victim of the recession that was supposed to have ended before I lost my job).

[dickita15]

Well various first gen rx7s show up on mens room walls from time to time for around $3k. Can’t get much cheaper than that.

[Knestis]

What are your goals, Bill? What do you want to accomplish by the switch?

K

[cjb25hs]

Bill, a friend of mine is selling an ita acr hillclimb car here in pgh. It was recently repainted and would need second door bars added and a killswitch to be legal. It currently has k sport coilovers that are crap, but he has koni yellows and an assortment of mopar springs that would go witj the car. The add can be foind on racepa.com as well as he has it advertised on roadraceautox. You can get it for under 3k

[RacerBill]

What are your goals, Bill? What do you want to accomplish by the switch?

K

Good, reliable car, mid-pack would be fine, good upgraded suspension, at least presentable - does not have to be drop dead georgous. VERY limited budget.

Asked my the guy who did my engine (I would not call it 'built') for an engine that would last but be a little better than stock, and it lasted not even three complete weekends.

[tnord]

Classified on IT Forum and Racingjunk.com look very thin.

really? because i see all sorts of stuff out there for silly cheap. what exactly are you looking for?

[Russ Myers]

I bought a Pinto. If yor're going to get your ass kicked, do it real cheap.

Russ

[rsportvolvo]

Buy cheap and win:

https://improvedtouring.com...ad.php?t=28391

[dhardison]

Buy cheap and win:

https://improvedtouring.com...ad.php?t=28391

If I were in the market for an ITB car, I'd be ALL OVER this deal. (or a Honda.... )

[ITA_honda]

If I were in the market for an ITB car, I'd be ALL OVER this deal. (or a Honda.... )

+1 for Honda

[CRallo]

I bought a Pinto. If yor're going to get your ass kicked, do it real cheap.

Russ

this forum needs a "like" button! lol

that's my plan too, someone gave me the stock, 20 year old engine that is in my car now!

[924Guy]

Yeah, you need something very reliable and easy to drive, Honda would certainly fill that bill.

Al Stephenson (username Ned Stevens?) has his ex-Bildon GTI up for sale too - that's not only reliable and easy to drive, it's fast - is up here at Waterford. You just hafta like Orange. Then again, maybe that's a prerequesite for ITB Hondas too.

Might be a bit more coin than a Honda though...

I do suspect you'd be better off with FWD for now, though, given your experience...

Best of luck buying and selling!

[gran racing]

Yeah, you need something very reliable and easy to drive, Honda would certainly fill that bill.

The Swift is a nice deal but not what several consider easy to drive. Not so sure that's the car for Bill.

[rsportvolvo]

I would think an engine rebuild is much easier than a new race car. The existing knowledge and spares should account for something.

I would use the MOPAR 2.2/2.5 FWD manual and regroup.

http://www.southeastrt.net/catalog/i...at=15&item=468

[benspeed]

I'd keep my eyes open for an ITS RX7 - second generation. You can get a good runner for $5K and these cars are proven winners, super reliable and fantastic fun to drive.

Here's a potential ITS 944 on Craigslist that is a pretty nice deal for $2700 but needs some finishing. Has the cage, camber plates and lots of goodies. I was told divorce was in the cards if I bought it for a winter project. I'd finish it up and sell for profit if approved by my 'supervisor'. :-)

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1988548287.html

(I'm an old ITS guy, don't know much about A, B, C)

[RacerBill]

I would think an engine rebuild is much easier than a new race car. The existing knowledge and spares should account for something.

I would use the MOPAR 2.2/2.5 FWD manual and regroup.

http://www.southeastrt.net/catalog/i...at=15&item=468

When I blew a head gasket last year, I decided to try that route. Found a local race engine builder that seemed to know what he was talking about. $2300 later, I had an engine that lasted three weekends (never got over 200 degrees, or over 6000 RPM) and did not seem to have any more power than the old engine. It sounded great, though. However, when I first tried to start it, we found that the timing gears were so far out of alignment that the only way it would run was to rotate the plug wires one position on the distributor.

I have enough skill to change the head gasket, but other than that, no experience bulding/rebuilding engines. I chased a leaking thermostat housing for two days before the nut behind the wrench figured out that a stud that located the oil dip stick tube was put in backwards and was bottoming out in the head, preventing the housing from getting drawn up tight and sealing. BTW, I've had the MOPAR manual since before I got the car home.

I was hoping to be able to put some money into the suspension, but that would have to go on the back burner until the engine was made right. Now, if the builder would make the engine right, like he should have done the first time......

[rsportvolvo]

When I blew a head gasket last year, I decided to try that route. Found a local race engine builder that seemed to know what he was talking about. $2300 later, I had an engine that lasted three weekends (never got over 200 degrees, or over 6000 RPM) and did not seem to have any more power than the old engine. It sounded great, though. However, when I first tried to start it, we found that the timing gears were so far out of alignment that the only way it would run was to rotate the plug wires one position on the distributor.

I have enough skill to change the head gasket, but other than that, no experience bulding/rebuilding engines. I chased a leaking thermostat housing for two days before the nut behind the wrench figured out that a stud that located the oil dip stick tube was put in backwards and was bottoming out in the head, preventing the housing from getting drawn up tight and sealing. BTW, I've had the MOPAR manual since before I got the car home.

I was hoping to be able to put some money into the suspension, but that would have to go on the back burner until the engine was made right. Now, if the builder would make the engine right, like he should have done the first time......

If money is the issue here your best bet is to get a junkyard engine and rebuild it yourself. It may take some time and might not be a 10/10ths build, but with help from racer's around you you'll have a reliable engine for several seasons.

And... boycott that engine shop in the future if they fail to help you out.

[rsportvolvo]

When I blew a head gasket last year, I decided to try that route. Found a local race engine builder that seemed to know what he was talking about. $2300 later, I had an engine that lasted three weekends (never got over 200 degrees, or over 6000 RPM) and did not seem to have any more power than the old engine. It sounded great, though. However, when I first tried to start it, we found that the timing gears were so far out of alignment that the only way it would run was to rotate the plug wires one position on the distributor.

I have enough skill to change the head gasket, but other than that, no experience bulding/rebuilding engines. I chased a leaking thermostat housing for two days before the nut behind the wrench figured out that a stud that located the oil dip stick tube was put in backwards and was bottoming out in the head, preventing the housing from getting drawn up tight and sealing.

The two items you mentioned above in bold are GREAT reasons to stop everything and take the engine back to the builder. In hindsight don't assume the shop did the right thing and band-aid the setup to make it work. In the end you'll lose, case and point.