Interesting Oil Temp and Pressure Question

[billf]

Sorry Quadzjr,

I didn't mean to sound as though I was counting your statement as wrong. My experiences (some) are with older English sports cars that used Accusump, that had poor oil pressure control in the corners. Ergo, the Accusump was active, and was constantly moving oil, and was warm/hot to the touch during the event. This harks back to the friend mentioned above.

If you have a cool unit (lucky guy), it shows, as you said, that it is not moving oil to any degree. Reasonable pan design.

Sometimes I have to remind myself that I'm old, and have played with some really inefficient automotive designs that started life as tractors (BMC), or commercial water pumps (Saab).

Again, no insult intended.

Eric,

Could I suggest that you also evaluate the air exit from the cooler? Soimetimes they are overlooked.

Good racing,

Bill

[spawpoet]

Sorry Quadzjr,

I didn't mean to sound as though I was counting your statement as wrong. My experiences (some) are with older English sports cars that used Accusump, that had poor oil pressure control in the corners. Ergo, the Accusump was active, and was constantly moving oil, and was warm/hot to the touch during the event. This harks back to the friend mentioned above.



Bill

We had the same issues with our Datsun Roadster motors with an accusump. Also an inefficient tractor motor.

[quadzjr]

What about trying puting a electronic fan on the cooler and mount it elsewhere? However in winter time it may overcool the oil. Maybe keep the cooler and not run the fan?

[Matt93SE]

Just a quick thought, but with 1" of clearance between the oil cooler and radiator, how much air is getting around the cooler instead of going through it? You might try building some sort of air dam between the cooler and rad to force air through it instead of around. that coule be as simple as some foam jammed between the two for a session and see what happens. cheap and easy to remove if that doesnt' solve it.

Also, I'm used to Nissans but those oil pressures are insanely high. My car sees about 30psi when cold at idle and gets down to about 10psi hot at idle. cold, it'll go past 100psi at 3000rpm and I don't run it any higher than that till it's warm.
When I let it warm up, it's still near 100psi at 6000rpm, but again only 10psi at idle.

I'd almost be afraid of bearing washout with those pressures, but as other have said- it's got 20 races on it and hasn't blown up? Sounds like it's running good to me. don't re-engineer something that works.

[keilysmith]

Leakdowns and controls compression seems normal, so I think it is in good shape yet. It is always best as driver and starts and runs great. For more information about the engine (I 2) or mm or even know the details and the guys on the kinetics do not speak so I put the engine back to them for reconstruction. I am a little cautious about rebuilding engines, but I can rebuild my free time first, then turn the engine. I will be able to find things a little more than one. I know that the oil pump has been redesigned to build more pressure.

[dick elliott]

Take a look at http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/tool/oiltest/oiltest.htm to see one way to test the oiling system.

[23racer]

Wow, that looks like a great rig.

As an update to the story, I have reinstalled all of the original airduct sealing going to the rad and cooler. It looks like a lot of bleed of could have been occuring. As well I have repaired the high speed circuit on the fan and sealed off the gaps between the cooler and the fan.

I am also going to put a heat shield between the front header and the rad/ coolers/ line. The Firebraid that is slipped over the output oil line that goes to the Accusump and cooler is all nice and crispy now from the heat, so I am going to slip another sleeve over the line and try to protect it better. Anybody have opinions on the use of header wrap on stainless steel headers? My front header runs within an inch of the oil pan and wrapping it would substantially reduce oil temps in the pan.

Eric