I've finished 2nd in class twice at Nasa's 25 hour, 3rd once and won once, with cars I've built and/or driven, and won the 06 endurance series championship.... hopefully that qualifies.
Josh, I'd bet your net is too tight.
I've finished 2nd in class twice at Nasa's 25 hour, 3rd once and won once, with cars I've built and/or driven, and won the 06 endurance series championship.... hopefully that qualifies.
Josh, I'd bet your net is too tight.
Marcus
miller-motorsports.com - Its always an Adventure (and woefully outdated)
1.6 ITE/SPU/ST2 Turbo Miata (in pieces... err progress)
spring type with a rod end, mounted sideways on the opposite end. That way you only have to worry about cliping in one side not both.
For what it's worth I have the spring-rod version and abhor it with a passion. It's not easy to put up or take down from inside the car. Could be due to my winged seats and not having much room...but I really don't like it.
Ryan Scott
ITC CRX #23
Sponsors: GoPro, PR Machine Works, SAS, Yoke's Body Shop, Signature Signs
Great Scott Motorsports
Rally Team for Dreams
I had the spring rod version in one car and the spring broke during a 24. Net fell, had to wrap with duct tape to keep tension for the rest of the race. Replaced with GM type.
Chuck
I've used them all in enduros.
Spring rod - simple, but hard to undo, even harder to hook up in the, especially getting the rod in the hole when its dark. IMpossible if you're strapped in tight.
Seatbelt clip - tend to bind, making it hard to get it unclipped. Not always clear that it is fully latched when you put it in.
Biggest problem w/ these is that F'ing tab hanging down that rips the skin off your back getting in & out and you whack your head on it while working on the car. HATE these.
Latch & link - no doubts when its latched. One hand removal. Can be tough to line up, but no harder than a seatbelt latch. If used w/ a rod end at the back, there is one less degree of freedom for getting it lined up. The loop you're aiming for is smaller, but this is good as it can be tucked up tighter, avoiding the back scratcher problem of the seat belt clip.
The latch & link w/ a rod end at the back end is the best in my opinion. Look for a small L&L set up, some of the go cart harnesses have a smaller version than a set of car harnesses.
I attatch the bottom of the net to chains, bolted to the second cross bar gussets.
Unhooked, the net ass hangs over the top bar , not hindering the escape or catching on drivers suit. keeping the top bar clean will aid in the long run.
I use a button type of seat belt latch on the A pillar down bar, and a big hole in a gusset at the B bar. I mount the front attatchment system well around the bar to avoid hitting it with a helmet upon exit.
I have cut off most of the net systems that have come in used race cars, esp. if I hit my head or tug at any clothing.
I tape the crap out of the net on race day to keep it from sliding all over.
Any of the front latch methods can work OK. If the net is real tight, the driver will have problems getting it hooked up, belted in. The push button seat belt latch is the easiest in this respect. Leave a little bit of bar under the latch to hit with your hand and it should latch.
RE Tab; Mount the tab on the net bar and the latch on the roll bar!! The tab is the first thing thatI cut off.
Last edited by Flyinglizard; 08-15-2010 at 02:33 PM.
Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/
Bookmarks