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Thread: Fastest window net setup

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    Default Fastest window net setup

    I'm looking at window net installation kits and I would like to know which latch mechanism is the fastest to unlatch/relatch for driver changes. The common options are:

    seat belt buckle
    seatbelt latch, NASCAR style
    spring rod

    I plan on hinging the rear part so that I only have to attach one point and all others being fixed.
    David Russell
    IT Volvo 242

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsportvolvo View Post
    I plan on hinging the rear part so that I only have to attach one point and all others being fixed.
    If you hinge the rear, will it give you enough room to get out?

    I have a spring rod type in my car and have been happy with it. I also have a brand new G Force seatbelt buckle type in the garage. when I took the car in to have the cage built, the guy said he liked the spring rod much better and said it would be cheaper for him to build and install one of those than to install a belt buckle type. don't know how that works, but okay whatever. voice of experience told me to listen to the guy that's been racing 20+ years and has climbed in and out of bazillions of cars.

    Unlatching it takes about 2 seconds. reach up, grab the handle and pull with left hand. as net falls down, grab door handle with left hand while I'm reaching for belt with right hand.
    soon as belt is unbuckled reach over and push door open and then climb out.

    I'm FAT and can shut off and get out of the car in less than 8 seconds even with my HANS. If my butt was on fire, I bet I could do it in less than 5.

    plugging the net in place is just a tiny bit more difficult, but still no big deal. If you're doing a driver change, you can have the driver buckling himself in/ yanking belts while someone else is latching the window net and closing the door.. to make it easier, you might consider tapering/rounding the tip of the spring rod a bit so that it centers in the hole a bit easier. That's something I noticed the other day when I was hurrying to get to grid. if you're already buckled into the car and having to try to latch it with your fingertips, it gets a bit frustrating. done before you tighten the belts, it's no biggie.
    Last edited by Matt93SE; 08-09-2010 at 11:16 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default

    spring rod, for sure.

    seat belt buckle: disaster waiting to happen.
    nascar latch n link: a close second.
    Marcus
    miller-motorsports.com - Its always an Adventure (and woefully outdated)
    1.6 ITE/SPU/ST2 Turbo Miata (in pieces... err progress)

  4. #4
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    I have a spring rod and really dislike it, it is NOT fast. The car before had a seat belt buckle, that was better, and the car before that had a NASCAR-style latch, and that was definitely the best. I have been going the wrong way. I've been meaning to replace my spring rod for a couple years now, but haven't gotten around to it.

    Maybe my net is just stretched too tight? I have trouble undoing it with one hand when I practice, although I'm sure adrenaline will help. When I'm not in the hurry I find myself using two hands.
    Josh Sirota
    ITR '99 BMW Z3 Coupe

  5. #5
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    Grove City, OH, USA
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    I have been using the NASCAR style fastner, with a lever that is easier to operate with a glove than the GM seatbelt style that uses a button. Personal preference. See if you can find cars with all three styles installed (not all on the same car.....) and ask if you can try them out to see how they work.
    Bill Stevens - Mbr # 103106
    BnS Racing www.bnsracing.net
    92 ITA Saturn
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  6. #6
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    Buffalo, New York
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    Technically, "NASCAR" encompasses both the seat belt button and Latch & Link Style. It used to be seat belt for Busch; latch and link for Cup. Now it is Latch & Link for all.

    In any event, both work just fine, although one may prefer the latch & link for ultimate safety. I use the seat belt button style and in certain instances, they can be difficult to get to "click" in.

    Never considered using the spring rod.

  7. #7
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    Fredericksburg, VA
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    If speed is the ultimate goal, I would avoid the seatbelt style latch; I have that on my car, and while I'm perfectly happy with it for sprint racing, it does sometimes take a little jiggling to get it to latch, particluarly if the net is nice and tight like mine is.
    Earl R.
    240SX
    ITA/ST5

  8. #8
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    Feb 2002
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    Dropping the window net isn't as much of a concern as relatching. I've seen too many folks dorking around with window nets trying to relatch them. I plan on having my window net fairly tight, which is why I'm concerned about the relatching. I've used the spring rod in the past and it wasn't the easiest to relatch.

    Is it safe to assume all responses are from endurance folks?
    David Russell
    IT Volvo 242

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsportvolvo View Post
    Is it safe to assume all responses are from endurance folks?
    Not a safe assumption at all
    Earl R.
    240SX
    ITA/ST5

  10. #10
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    I've finished 2nd in class twice at Nasa's 25 hour, 3rd once and won once, with cars I've built and/or driven, and won the 06 endurance series championship.... hopefully that qualifies.

    Josh, I'd bet your net is too tight.
    Marcus
    miller-motorsports.com - Its always an Adventure (and woefully outdated)
    1.6 ITE/SPU/ST2 Turbo Miata (in pieces... err progress)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    spring type with a rod end, mounted sideways on the opposite end. That way you only have to worry about cliping in one side not both.

  12. #12
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    Columbus, OH
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    For what it's worth I have the spring-rod version and abhor it with a passion. It's not easy to put up or take down from inside the car. Could be due to my winged seats and not having much room...but I really don't like it.
    Ryan Scott
    ITC CRX #23

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  13. #13
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    Rockville, MD
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    I had the spring rod version in one car and the spring broke during a 24. Net fell, had to wrap with duct tape to keep tension for the rest of the race. Replaced with GM type.
    Chuck

  14. #14
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    Concord, NH 03301
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    I've used them all in enduros.

    Spring rod - simple, but hard to undo, even harder to hook up in the, especially getting the rod in the hole when its dark. IMpossible if you're strapped in tight.

    Seatbelt clip - tend to bind, making it hard to get it unclipped. Not always clear that it is fully latched when you put it in.
    Biggest problem w/ these is that F'ing tab hanging down that rips the skin off your back getting in & out and you whack your head on it while working on the car. HATE these.

    Latch & link - no doubts when its latched. One hand removal. Can be tough to line up, but no harder than a seatbelt latch. If used w/ a rod end at the back, there is one less degree of freedom for getting it lined up. The loop you're aiming for is smaller, but this is good as it can be tucked up tighter, avoiding the back scratcher problem of the seat belt clip.

    The latch & link w/ a rod end at the back end is the best in my opinion. Look for a small L&L set up, some of the go cart harnesses have a smaller version than a set of car harnesses.

  15. #15
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    I attatch the bottom of the net to chains, bolted to the second cross bar gussets.
    Unhooked, the net ass hangs over the top bar , not hindering the escape or catching on drivers suit. keeping the top bar clean will aid in the long run.

    I use a button type of seat belt latch on the A pillar down bar, and a big hole in a gusset at the B bar. I mount the front attatchment system well around the bar to avoid hitting it with a helmet upon exit.
    I have cut off most of the net systems that have come in used race cars, esp. if I hit my head or tug at any clothing.
    I tape the crap out of the net on race day to keep it from sliding all over.
    Any of the front latch methods can work OK. If the net is real tight, the driver will have problems getting it hooked up, belted in. The push button seat belt latch is the easiest in this respect. Leave a little bit of bar under the latch to hit with your hand and it should latch.
    RE Tab; Mount the tab on the net bar and the latch on the roll bar!! The tab is the first thing thatI cut off.
    Last edited by Flyinglizard; 08-15-2010 at 02:33 PM.
    Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/

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