Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Trailering tips for low cars

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    253

    Default Trailering tips for low cars

    Hi - having an issue with getting a low car into a trailer, I jack the front of the trailer up and use 2x8 boards to pick up the front of the car.. anyone have tips that help them get their car on? thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,717

    Default

    Longer ramps
    STU BMW Z3 2.5liter

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Savannah, GA
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I carried longer ramps for a while but found something better for me, at least. Make a couple of spacers so that the ramps just clear your spoiler when you pull up to it. Now when you drive onto the ramps your chin will clear the ramp by the thickness of the spacers and give you a head start.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    316

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    253

    Default

    The race ramps look interesting.. djsilver, what do you mean by "spacers"? what are they and where do you put them? thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Savannah, GA
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Campbell View Post
    The race ramps look interesting.. djsilver, what do you mean by "spacers"? what are they and where do you put them? thanks
    Just a couple of short boards right under the end of the ramps.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Belmont, CA
    Posts
    226

    Default

    These are nice, but they will take more space in the trailer and not give much more benefit than my "long boards".

    What about dropping the trailer down a bit, by using smaller wheels? It will add more wear on the tires and hubs tho (from the the extra revs).
    Scot Mac - Mac Motorsports
    88 ITB Fiero #41, SFR, NWR, ICSCC

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    134

    Default

    I carry a set of plastic drive on ramps- like for doing oil changes at home- and I run the back wheels of the truck up on them. Easier than jacking, and it seems to help quite a bit, at least with the dragging of the middle of the car. Nose, I don't have any trouble.

    Jim Barnsley, Streetwise Service
    WCMA IT2 Neon Twincam
    2009/2010 Regional and Alberta IT2 Champion
    2009 Regional Overall Champion. Second this year, dammit.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Royal Oak, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,599

    Default

    I now have a trailer designed for low cars - DSR's! With the old trailer (steel, with big wheels) I had to raise the nose using a jack to be sure not to rip the exhaust off.

    This Trailex has small wheels (13's IIRC), little trailer tires, and a tilt-bed. Absurdly low and flat; don't think I'll have too much trouble getting the DSR on once it's built. And yes, currently using it for the ITB car, and that's now a no-brainer...
    Vaughan Scott
    Detroit Region #280052
    '79 924 #77 ITB
    #65 Hidari Firefly P2
    www.vaughanscott.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Port St. Lucie, FL
    Posts
    354

    Default

    You could also get an extra set of wheels just for trailering your car and mount higher profile tires on them. A little more trouble at the track switching them out every event, but it will get the job done.
    Chris Carey

    Central Florida Region
    ITS/Vintage Datsun 240Z

    Favorite tool to remove undercoating---- A curb!

    "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
    Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    1,106

    Default

    i have seen more than one trailer that was either built or modified to have somethihng liike this as part of the flip part of the door/ramp. can't find any photos.



    imagine that the above was hinged on the door so that instead of flipping up the short ~12-18" long section, you flipped up the entire ramp section. it is essentially out of the way in the trailer since it is now part of the door.

    the ramp itself had supports on it that kept the main part of the door supported up ~12" and the ramp extension then flipped down and added ~2-4 feet more ramp length.

    EDIT: still no pics but found a reference to an option with Pace: http://www.barkertrailersales.com/me.../PR8520TA2.pdf
    Last edited by tom91ita; 06-20-2010 at 10:28 AM. Reason: add pace link
    1985 CRX Si competed in Solo II: AS, CS, DS, GS
    1986 CRX Si competed in: SCCA Solo II CSP, SCCA ITA, SCCA ITB, NASA H5
    1988 CRX Si competed in ITA & STL

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •