Hi-Temp brake fluid

[Greg Amy]

Dan, if you're boiling ATE Blue/Amber-Gold (I use them alternating, to see when I've flushed out the old stuff) then you need to add cooling ducting. - GA

[dj10]

if you're boiling ATE Blue/Amber-Gold ........your using your bakes way to much. :~)

[Greg Amy]

Touche!

[JeffYoung]

I agree with Greg and Dan.

I've got a seriously brake challenged car, and run Castrol SRF just for the added small bit of protection. BUT, if you are boiling a "good" (550 plus dry boiling temp) fluid like ATE, Motul or Castrol, then you have a cooling issue you need to address.

Note also that the dry boiling point is less important than the wet, according to the "experts" anyway. Most brake fluid starts to absorb water the minute you crack it open and the dry boiling point isn't really that relevant.

[wepsbee]

Great, now how do I know if I am boiling the fluid. I assume using the brakes too much is only an issue if you are going fast enough to begin with.

[wepsbee]

Excellent help. I will get the ATE. I notice there are 2 colors to help with flushes. Great idea!!

[JeffYoung]

Greg, I've always wondered about the wet v. dry deal. I've had some people I trust tell me what you said above, and others say that basically once you open the bottle you start taking on water and unless you are flushing every weekend you really should pay more attention to the wet boiling point.

Not sure which is correct, although it certainly seems to me that even fluids like Motul that are notorious for soaking up the moisture can't get all that bad right way.

Here's a discussion on this from a motorcycle racing site:

http://www.sportbikesolutions.com/mo...es/brake-fluid

I'll do some more reading later. Note that the biggest advantage of SRF is that its wet boiling point is a LOT higher than the other top flight brands.

I've boiled Motul, finned drums and all! (actually my drums don't have fins, but those pesky Z cars do). I've never done so with Castrol, but the key point is the one you made above. Cooling is more important than 20 or 30 degree differences in boiling point on the fluids. Once I maximized my brake cooling efforts (nice hats with splitters on the solid rotors, moving the ducts as far in board as possible, and going to a less aggressive pad compound, I solved most of my problems. It certainly was not the fluid.

[Greg Amy]

...and that coming from a guy with a Brit car...doesn't that thing have finned front brake drums... (yes, yes, I know: the Brits invented the disc brake. Too bad they kept it secret for so long so the Yanks wouldn't steal it!)

Actually though, Jeff, I'd disagree with you on the wet v. dry; for race cars where we change the fluid often (one would assume), the "wet" rarely comes into significance. IIRC, the DOT ratings for "wet" are based on a test with the assumption that a car that lives for a decade without ever changing the fluid; I seem to recall the sample for testing "wet" is with the fluid humidified to something like 3.5% water!!!

Since I bleed the brakes every race weekend, I tend to personally ignore the wet rating. - GA