Bought a 88 CRX SI ITA car

[Davegt74]

14x7's are fine. I wouldn't worry about the corner weight and tire capacity... it's a non issue. You don't want 15x7's b/c fitting 225/45 Hoosiers is a real PITA on the rear. It can be done but the offset is crucial and they still barely fit. The 14's are going to be just as fast but easier to get on the car.

good points, spent some time looking for some 14x7" rims but as luck would have it i cant find anyone that sells the lightest ones listed on wheel wts.net

4.7 FD is the best "all around" although different options may be better for specific tracks.

the guy that sold me the car tried to sell me a 4.7FD but I did not have any more money also I figured since its a Honda they should be easy to get.

The weight adjustment was part of the Great Re-alignment. The CRX was one of the bogey's for the class and the weight really hasn't slowed them down.

Sphericals are good but especially important in the radius rods. You can run a mix of OEM and poly on the rest and be just fine.

I had to look up what a radius rod is but it should be easy to make one (other cars call them strut rods)

IT allows a shit-ton of development and parts. You can spend some serious cubic-dollars when looking at a full prep car.

hope its less then the FP/GTL cars (one guy e-mailed me and said unless I am dynoing 7 motors in the off season forget about GT)

I know I wont be some hot shoe so my goal for this car is to just make it faster then it was when I first got the car

if I can figure out how to hook up my narrow band AFR meter then I can work on the very rich mixture it has now

thanks
David

[Xian]

14x7 Team Dynamics are plenty light and strong. They're also not terribly expensive.

Yep, 4.7FD isn't too hard to find. Plenty of folks make them... do a little searching/asking to see which will be the best blend of price and reliability. I'd suggest having it cryo'd and REM'd while your at it.

Radius Rods are the ones that go "forward" off your front LCA's to the front subframe. Progress Suspension makes a kit or you can make your own.

Yes, less than FP/GTL but still quite a bit if you want to go full-tilt-boogy. If you're running a stock ECU along with aftermarket intake/header/exhaust, I wouldn't worry too much about AFR being too rich. They make good power in that configuration and there's no sense leaning it out when that could impact reliability. IIRC, the stock ECU doesn't look at the o2 sensor at full throttle anyway... just runs the regular "open loop" program.

[almracing]

Dave,

I also run a CRX in the Northeast and have quite a few parts/spares for the CRX. Drop me a note if you need anything (ie, transmissions, doors, heads, suspension parts, OPM LSD, springs, shocks etc.)

[Davegt74]

14x7 Team Dynamics are plenty light and strong. They're also not terribly expensive.

Yep, 4.7FD isn't too hard to find. Plenty of folks make them... do a little searching/asking to see which will be the best blend of price and reliability. I'd suggest having it cryo'd and REM'd while your at it.

Radius Rods are the ones that go "forward" off your front LCA's to the front subframe. Progress Suspension makes a kit or you can make your own.

Yes, less than FP/GTL but still quite a bit if you want to go full-tilt-boogy. If you're running a stock ECU along with aftermarket intake/header/exhaust, I wouldn't worry too much about AFR being too rich. They make good power in that configuration and there's no sense leaning it out when that could impact reliability. IIRC, the stock ECU doesn't look at the o2 sensor at full throttle anyway... just runs the regular "open loop" program.

yep your right don't make any changes, I have to force myself to keep hands off for now

the Narrow band O 2 sensor is in the wrong place anyway it would never light off way back where its at.

I also run a CRX in the Northeast and have quite a few parts/spares for the CRX. Drop me a note if you need anything (ie, transmissions, doors, heads, suspension parts, OPM LSD, springs, shocks etc.)

Tony, got any Eibach springs this thing only has 430lbs springs in the front
the A-Arm's has been contacting the Kioni/GC coil overs and putting marks on them.

David

[USGUYS]

DAVE
I ran CRX in ITA for a number of years. I have converted my cars to FP. I would happy to tell you some of the mistakes and good ideas we developed over the year.
I also have two sets of 14X7 Panasports Rallye wheels that I would be happy to sell. I use 13X7 in FP.
My best finish with the cars was a 2nd place at the June Sprints, running the car only slightly changed from ITA specs. I even ran the Hoosier DOTs.
My e-mail is [email protected].
Good Luck
Tony Machi

[Davegt74]

thanks Tony I will e-mail you next week.

the car did not do to well with the tech inspection so I have to fix some stuff before Friday

of course I am trying to figure out how it got through tech last year

I've been busting butt since I got back from the inspection

David

[Davegt74]

Updates

I had to add padding, the red is what I put in

it was a pain since some of it did not match the tube diameter



had to install this also



still need to do the window net the one that's on the car does not have an SFI label

and also the batt cover

when did the start to require a SFI certified window net?

David

[quadzjr]

why do you need a battery cover? I thought stock was okay

[Xian]

Stock is just fine.

[Bob Roth]

A couple of things to get started.

1) It looks like the car has been around a while. Something that CRX's develop problems in is cracks in body suspension mounting areas. Carefully look at the rear bulkhead where the lower a arm mounts, that bulkhead will crack and actually tear off of the car. Also look for cracks in the steering rack mount and in in the front wheel well area. i don't want to freak you out, just keep an eye on these areas so you don't get unhappy surprises.

2) I think either the 14 x 7 or the 15 x 7 will be good. the 225 50 14' will fit with massaging in the rear. But just don't assume they will fit. Hopefully that work has been already done. Something you do not want to have happen is not clearence the rear as the tire will hook up into the rear wheel arch and its like hitting the brake at apex - instant oversteer.

3) Talk to tom fowler on hub life. They do break. If you were using stock hubs, I think change every 8 races? One thing to note, If you are racing, and all the sudden your peddle goes low, but you have brakes, be very cautious, and if in practice come into pits and check to see if you have slop in front wheels. Its a classic sign of a hub failure. They give you that early warning, next stop in a couple of laps is the wheel breaking off the car.

Its a great car, youl enjoy it!

[raffaelli]

Around Denver

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1676032033.html

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1675289946.html

Maybe you can ask this guy for the shell:
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1667695234.html

[Xian]

Easy Button: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1650664879.html

Christian, who's a little familiar with the car above...

[Davegt74]

some pics



in the rear there was a small tear like if a bolt had been tore out but it was a sign of things to come
I tore it the rest of the way



the Body shop said the car had been through the ringer and I could spend 3K fixing it
it had 1/4 inch of bondo where the BBS is at

I could smoke the tires in 2nd gear on pit out, this car has some pwr
I might even take it to the chassie dyno

[joeg]

That is only a door, a good professional tug and some Bondo.

Have them do the pull (for cash) and get a new door. Bolt on the door. Leave the rear qtr alone for the time being.

[Steven McWilliams Jr]

Wow, that's too bad. The car was, and still is beautiful. You can surely pull the dent out. I saw a Mini and a F350 Super Duty tugging on a Miata at VIR last year. the tag team straightened out the frame pretty well. you should definately give it a try. If the frame is still somewhat bent, you can always just try to balance the car with corner weights.

Good Luck,
Steven