You should maybe try less offset wheels to get the tire away from the strut. I use the BMW 320 wheels set, for 13s. 13 are faster if legal, the car is lower,better gear etc. If you take all of the camber at the top strut mount you may run into jamming the axles into the trans and breaking the CV, quite often. Tip the strut in and the axle has less play. Zero play =s dead axles . A good balance is to take about 2*, at the knuckle and 1in or less, at the top. Try to keep at least 1/2 in tire clearance to the strut. It may still rub some at 1/2 in.
When you get all done setting camber, untorque the axle nut about 8 turns. Push/tap, the axle in at least 1/4 in. If you hit bottom at less than 1/4 in ,you may have axle breakage problems, IMHO.
If you can buy wheels, stick them out a little more than stock. Try to match the tire to the wheel lip a little for better air, and if the track is wider, the car will transfer less weight.
If you get too far out, you may have to add some spring rate to get the same wheel rate. The VW wheel rate is about 96%( of spring rate), stock and it goes down a little ,as the tire center gets further outboard. Not much,but maybe down to 90% leverage factor.
Keep the offset about stock for a welded car!! Add only 15mm!!.
I use 7 in coils all around the car. This puts the adjuster sleeve just over the tire and about 1.5 in under the strut nut. I cant get 6 in to work on my car, You will need a pretty big spacer at the top to get the adjuster nut in a range.
8 are too long, for my cars.
7In are lighter than 8in, by only a little. You can set a 4in adjuster sleeve right on the stock lower perch. May have to trim it .5 in . Just trim off the perch if you want to. Doing this, allows an easy repair with junk yard parts,in a pinch.
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Originally Posted by Lael Cleland
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