Tow Vehicle, what should I get?

[Streetwise guy]

To add to Gregs Ford story- The reason the 7.3 diesels hold their value so well is that nobody wants the 6.0. It was a nightmare, and Ford still can't come up with a head gasket that will stay in it. The 6.4 is better, but mileage sucks due to the particulate trap. That can be solved, but not legally in a polution controlled jurisdiction.

The gas engines don't require a hamfisted plug change, although that does help. Early engine have 3 threads in an alumunum head to hold the plugs. Bad design. There is a commonly available Timesert kit to repair the heads, but its a pain. The later 3 valve heads use more threads, but have a two part spark plug that breaks when you remove them unless you do a two day decarbonize/penetrating oil/wiggle program. Again, there is a commonly available puller kit to remove the ceramic and unthreaded spark plug extension. Quick solution is to sell the truck before you have to change the plugs, so watch out for that when you are buying.

As to transmissions, add a trans temp gauge, and drive by it. Temp kills.

[JeffYoung]

Don't overlook the Cummins! Yes, the engine is better than the truck, but the truck ain't that bad. Tranny issues and balljoints are the big items, but they can be solved, and the Cummins will routinely run 250k no issues. Hell, easiest way to solve the tranny issue is to get a manual, which is fun to drive.

Early 2000s models are in the 8-9k range. They will tow a house.

Here's a local example, with 100k, and for about $9 grand.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1525025241.html

[racer_tim]

Look for an older Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel. You won't even know the trailer is behind you. I have a 1998.5 4x4, crew cab and when I towed up to Portland in 2003 with a dual axle open trailer, I got 18 mpg.