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Thread: Brembo Rotors

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    Black Rock, Ct
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    Further to Daves point, the wheel mounting surface is less than two inches away from the brake disc, which makes it impossible to press a stud in from the back. So the studs used are, in my case, double threaded, The short end threads into the disc/hub, then bottoms out on the non threaded portion of the stud, The lugs thread on the exposed threads. They are torqued via an allen wrench from the external end. (and red locktited)
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
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  2. #2
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    IT.com "First Loser" Greensboro, NC USA
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    Yuk.

    If i weren't doing enduros and cared about fast wheel changes, I'd use bolts before using those thread-in studs. Unless wheel thickness/spacers become an issue...?

    K

  3. #3
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    Black Rock, Ct
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knestis View Post
    Yuk.

    If i weren't doing enduros and cared about fast wheel changes, I'd use bolts before using those thread-in studs. Unless wheel thickness/spacers become an issue...?

    K
    Bingo. Not to mention the bolts are a major PITA. And, if you think about it, the failure mode being discussed here would occur with wheel bolts as well.
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
    IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
    Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
    BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
    GMC Sierra Tow Vehicle
    New England Region
    lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Findlay, Ohio USA
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    46

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    Quote Originally Posted by Knestis View Post
    Yuk.

    If i weren't doing enduros and cared about fast wheel changes, I'd use bolts before using those thread-in studs. Unless wheel thickness/spacers become an issue...?

    K
    Yes, the studs I have only have a limited engagement before they bottom on the unthreaded portion, so they put more stress on the threads. On the other hand, the fact that with Loctite the threads remain engaged and undisturbed with wheel changes means less wear and tear on them. Ideally, one should have a stud with continuous threads that can be inserted the same depth as the axle flange threads and loctited in. Does anyone have a source for such a stud?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Pacific Northwest
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    Jim-
    I'm the one who called you after having my left front wheel seperate from the car at speed. Even though all four studs pulled from the Brembo rotor I decided to look outside of just a possible rotor failure. A Brembo rotor for a first gen RX-7 has 18mm available for stud thread engagement. Most studs available from the RX-7 aftermarket world have only 9mm of engagement and the unthreaded area of the stud is so small that you can keep threading the stud in past this area thereby damaging your rotor threads. They also cannot provide any specs for there studs.
    I have talked with my fellow PRO-7 racers here in the Pacific Northwest, numerous engineers, engineers from ARP and Maryland Metrics and local machininsts. Finding a double ended stud with 18mm of engagement is very difficult. I ended up purchasing 12mm X 1.5 studs from Turner Motorsports. They are 75mm long with 13mm of engagement and 12mm of unthreaded area which is perfect for a 1/2" wheel spacer. Another racer is awaiting studs from Maryland metric which have 24mm of engagement. I will look at these also.
    Most likely I will run the Turner Motorsport studs with my current batch of inspected Brembo rotors next season and keep a close eye on this new set up. I appreciate the help Jim.
    Duane

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    San Clemente, Ca, USA
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    This weekend I installed a fresh pair of Brembo's on the front of my RX7. When I attempted to torque the wheel nuts two of the threaded holes on the rotor stripped and the studs pulled out of the rotor. This was the first time the wheel nuts had ever been installed so it is very difficult to point to this being anything other than defective Brembo rotors.

    In the absence of a source of fully threaded studs I used a die to thread the studs the entire length. You need to start from the hex end and work your way toward the rotor end of the stud. You then install the studs backwards. I.E. the end with the hex opening goes into the rotor(If needed, double nut the end of the stud to be able to use a wrench to install them). The reason you need to install them backwards is because the other end of the stud which is normally in the rotor now has a very weak thread on it because the die recuts these threads (poorly). However, if you are using studs that are long enough this weak area doesn't get used because it extends beyond the wheel nuts. This is the first time I've done this so I don't know if these studs are going to be reusable or removable, but I'm pretty confident my studs aren't going to pull out of the rotor because I have 100% engagement now. YMMV.
    Never underestimate a man that owns a Sawzall and a welder.

  7. #7
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    Mar 2002
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    I use the ones from Turner, or the same ones sold by a VW place called Norschlagg or something similar. No issues. But I haven't seen a Brembo available in a long time. At least four sets of rotors and bearings ago.
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
    IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
    Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
    BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
    GMC Sierra Tow Vehicle
    New England Region
    lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com


  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Castro Valley, CA
    Posts
    156

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    I've never had a thread issue with brembo's. I did receive one small bearing brembo rotor damaged somehow in manufacturing or transit that had a massive crack running accross the rotor surface tangent to the central hub. They are still my rotor of choice (best combination of durability, cost, and weight).

    Tak

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