KA24E oil pressure/pump

[erlrich]

- What I've read says to put the #1 cylinder at TDC on compression. Dumb question, but how do you know when it's on compression if you can't see the valves? Timing mark?

The valve cover is so easy to pull on these motors I would probably just do that; but just as easily you could pull the distributor cap - making a note of where #1 wire was - and turn the motor until the rotor was almost at the #1 contact on the cap. Then used the timing marks to get TDC.

Also, I presume I can pull the plugs and turn the crank with a socket or wrench?

Yes.

- I don't need to pull the distributor, right? I just need to take off the cap and mark where the rotor points?

Unless I was doing it wrong, you do need to pull the distributor. The is a notch in the end of the oil pump shaft that engages the distributor shaft; those need to be aligned for the oil pump to seat all the way. I found the easiest thing was to pull the distributor first, then make a mark on the block (or take a picture) so you'll know which way the notch was lined up - you'll have to put the new one back exactly the same way. That's what I was talking about when I said you may need a few tries to get the shaft in the right position; it turns a few degrees as the gear on the shaft engages the drive gear on the crankshaft.

- The FSM and a write-up I found talks about replacing a seal along with the gasket. I looked at the schematics on courtesyparts.com and the only seal I saw is for the pick-up tube. Is that the one? The local dealer had gaskets in stock so I have a couple of those now. Just wondering about this seal.

Thanks again for any pointers.

David

I don't remember where, but I seem to recall some seals and other shit in there; actually, Rock Auto shows this when you pull up the oil pump seal, those parts all look familiar but it's been a couple of years since I did mine so I can't remember where they all went...sorry.