KA24E oil pressure/pump

[erlrich]

- What I've read says to put the #1 cylinder at TDC on compression. Dumb question, but how do you know when it's on compression if you can't see the valves? Timing mark?

The valve cover is so easy to pull on these motors I would probably just do that; but just as easily you could pull the distributor cap - making a note of where #1 wire was - and turn the motor until the rotor was almost at the #1 contact on the cap. Then used the timing marks to get TDC.

Also, I presume I can pull the plugs and turn the crank with a socket or wrench?

Yes.

- I don't need to pull the distributor, right? I just need to take off the cap and mark where the rotor points?

Unless I was doing it wrong, you do need to pull the distributor. The is a notch in the end of the oil pump shaft that engages the distributor shaft; those need to be aligned for the oil pump to seat all the way. I found the easiest thing was to pull the distributor first, then make a mark on the block (or take a picture) so you'll know which way the notch was lined up - you'll have to put the new one back exactly the same way. That's what I was talking about when I said you may need a few tries to get the shaft in the right position; it turns a few degrees as the gear on the shaft engages the drive gear on the crankshaft.

- The FSM and a write-up I found talks about replacing a seal along with the gasket. I looked at the schematics on courtesyparts.com and the only seal I saw is for the pick-up tube. Is that the one? The local dealer had gaskets in stock so I have a couple of those now. Just wondering about this seal.

Thanks again for any pointers.

David

I don't remember where, but I seem to recall some seals and other shit in there; actually, Rock Auto shows this when you pull up the oil pump seal, those parts all look familiar but it's been a couple of years since I did mine so I can't remember where they all went...sorry.

[DavidM]

Thanks. Guess I'll be taking some pictures if I have to go in. I'm still puzzled by the seals. This is what is shown on courtesyparts.com:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-p...1420_1435.html

Looks like maybe a couple of those pieces go on the distributor side:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-p...1449_1451.html

I can't figure out the other two.

David

[erlrich]

If I recall correctly, a couple of those go between the block and the timing chain guide, or the block and the t/c cover...the large seal is obviously for the crank, the o-ring may be for the distributor. I'm not sure you need to replace any of those just to change out the pump.

[Tristan Smith]

David, the only gasket you need is the one numbered 15066. I would change your oil gauge sender first before I changed any of the other parts. If you still get readings that you consider low, I would think about changing the oil pump.

I don't recall what my cold oil pressures were, but I don't think you are seeing anything dangerously low. Especially if you haven't warmed up the motor and rev'ed it up to see what you are getting under load.

If you do change the pump, take all the spark plugs out and turn the motor with a socket on the crank. Shine a flashlight in the spark plug hole of cylinder#1 and you will see the piston at TDC. Use the distributer and the timing marks to make sure that you are at the proper stroke.

Be sure to prime your oil pump before you put it on. Just fill it up as much as you can by pouring some oil in the holes (but not so much that it spills all over the place when you turn it at an angle to put it in).

See what Earl said about the distributer.

[DavidM]

Looking more and more like an issue with the sender or with the wiring. Started the car up this evening and got 42psi immediately at idle. I don't think the oil pump would have magically healed itself overnight.

Let it warm up and then reved it to 4500-5000. Got 50 psi or so at those RPMs. The gauge seemed to get stuck at 40-50 as it wouldn't go below 40 at idle even with the car at operating temp. The weird thing is that when I turned on my electric fan to keep the car cool it seemed to jar the gauge and it dropped to about 25psi at idle. Definitely something flaky going on. I'll replace the sender and check the wiring.

I'll bring the spare oil pump with me to the track just in case, but I'm going to chalk this up to electrical weirdness. Hopefully that's the case. Thanks for all the help. See you at the track.

David

[CCARVER]

Glad it looks like a simple fix David.
If you dont mind, run blocker for the ITA CRX we are bringing up.
I know how wide a 240 can be at times!
See you guys track side.
Carver

[DavidM]

I haven't driven since Labor day last year so I'm not expecting a whole lot. I'll likely be trying to keep up with that CRX. If I can run similar times as last time out and have somebody to race that would be a good weekend.

David