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Thread: How To Remove Brake Proportioning Valve?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    358

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    The normal method for this is really simple, and still keeps dual circuits, just not cross biased.

    1. Take out the prop valve.
    2. The front circuit goes from the master to a "tee" which then feeds both front brakes
    3. The back circuit (single line from the master) goes to your "pressure limiting prop valve), then to the back of the car, where it too gets a "Tee" which goes to both rear brakes.

    The result is, you have two lines teed to the front circuit, and two lines teed to the back circuit of the master with your prop valve in there. Now, test it under threshold braking, and adjust until the rears lock under FULL braking. Once you get that, back it off a touch, and bingo - you are done

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    hampden,ma.usa
    Posts
    3,083

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    Gutting the tee would be bad. If one line breaks you could lose all braking. If I am not mistaken the left front is powered directly from the MC. If I am right you can just remove the prop valve and use a coupling to connect the rf line to the front line from the MC and another coupling to connect the rear brakes to the rear line from the MC or run a new line to do the same thing without couplings.
    dick patullo
    ner scca IT7 Rx7

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    raymond NH
    Posts
    623

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    The easiest way is also the cheapest. Disconnect both inlets and both outlets. Take a pair of 3/16 or Metric flare unions NOT compression fittings, And connect and bleed system. The end result will be max braking front and rear so you need to add a pressure limiting type bias valve in side the car. Done
    Dan-o 70 IT7

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Wandering the USA
    Posts
    1,341

    Default

    Got it. Thanks very much.
    Marty Doane
    ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
    2016 Winnebago Journey (home)

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