Yeah, me to, probably 2 sets. Should be more room to work with on the torsion bar cars.
Yeah, me to, probably 2 sets. Should be more room to work with on the torsion bar cars.
Ed Funk
NER ITA CRX, ITB Civic, ITC CRX (wanna buy a Honda?)
Smart as a horse, hung like Einstein!
I'll have to get a look at the differences in the front hub carrier etc, but if it is similiar it should not be hard
If they are a lot different than the 88 than I would need to get a hold of some junker front end pieces for a few days (we can work that out).
I've always heard you need to cool both sides of the rotor to prevent warping. Is that just a myth?
George Bugg
Huntsville, AL
ITA CRXsi
The best you can do is try and vent as much air to the center of the rotor (if it's a vented rotor) since it is trying to force the air out the veins. What my unit does is push air to the center and on the caliper side of the rotor to try and get some additional cooling to the caliper (minimal but anything is helpful). The only two things I've experienced that have warped a rotor is water on a hot rotor, and stopping the car with very hot brakes, and sitting there with your foot on the brake thereby heat soaking the one spot with what is coming from the pad.
I have not heard of cooling both sided equally making a difference.
Anybody have any pictures of the brake duct inlet especially on the 88-89 cars? Can you open holes in the front of the bumper for the ducts?
I have attached a link to the fitting that I used on the CRX-Si. http://raceshop.sbmsinc.com/photos/Hose_adapter_0.JPG
I also started to make Brake Ducts again, so if you need them let me know.
Yeah, I've seen people do that. But can you cut a hole and rivit in a http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3623 to the lower part of the 88-89 bumper? I know yo could do it to an air dam. I think theres something that says no changes to the body can be made or something?
BTW, Tom, you have the Unorthodox Racing race crank pulley in stock?
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