How to lose weight in my 1st gen ITS RX7

[Fallout]

Hi there,

i was the first time on the scale with my 1st gen ITS RX7 GSL-SE.
The result: 200 pounds overweight. After reading the GCR i don't see much potential to lose some more weight. Maybe you have some ideas.

The current status of the car:
- No interior left (but dash)
- No fan
- Race radiator
- Stock fuel tank
- Right door still stock
- Stock windows (no drivers door window)

The potenital i see is:
- Replace stock tank with fuel cell (how much would that bring? Even though i like the weight on the rear)

- Get rid of the interior of the passenger door. That probably would require a change of the cage. So i'm not sure about the value here.

Any comments?

[joeg]

Bars in the door (and removal of all the window stuff) is a good start.

Is your cage overbuilt?

I am not a big fan of using a cell to save weight over a stock tank, but there is much freedom in that area in IT.

What do you weigh?

[spawpoet]

Alot of extra weight is often "hidden" in wheels and tires. If your running a heavier tire (toyos come to mind) you may weigh 3-4 lbs/corner more than a hoosier. Ditto for wheels where alot of 15x7's are 5-6 lbs heavier than Volks and other optimal (but expensive) wheels. Weight savings by running the Hoosiers and expensive lightweight racing wheels can add-up to close to 40 lbs (all of which is unsprung). Of course if you already have these on you car there isn't any weight savings to be had here. As for doors, on our z i think we saved about ten lbs a door by adding nascar bars and gutting the inerds out. As for cells, many cars actually add weight over a stack tank if the cell is installed with the proper protection.

[Speed Raycer]

The last few lbs are always the most expensive

Look at unsprung weight first. Wheels/tires are probably your biggest gains.

Hollow sway bar? How much do your shocks/springs weigh? Sunroof chassis? There's some extra bracing up there that can be swapped IF the SE's were available w/o sunroofs (guessing that they weren't)

There's some weight to be saved if you have power windows on the pass side. You're looking at 1.426-1.7 lbs per foot for tubing so you need to be able to save ~8 lbs for it to be worth adding a bar.

Fuel cell will probably end up adding weight... but in the rear where you might want it.

How heavy is the seat and bracketry?
Exhaust system?

[betamotorsports]

How much weight can you, personally stand to loose?

[lateapex911]

I bet everyone of us, except MAYbe 10% of us can lose 20 pounds. And should. Some of us could lose more.

• Wheels and tires. 25 per corner would be a decent goal.
• Fasteners are free.
• Strip chassis of all undercoating, and trim.
• A cel can save weight in a 1st gen, but, you'll need to do a Jaz cell probably.
• Mufflers are often overweight. Mine weighs 6 pounds.
• Headers for rotaries are often really heavy. Stainless weighs less.
• Seats can be as little as 8 pounds.
• Gut that door!
• ditch all the gauges and put in a dash.
• Hollow sway bars.
• Remove exhaust shield and replace with lighter peices where needed.
• ALL emissions gear can go,
• Air box and filter should be as light as possible.
• Radiator should't be oversized, there's weight in the rad itself, plus the water.

[tom_sprecher]

WHen I gutted the door with electric window the net result was a 16# reduction. I weighted everything too.

Hoosiers are really lighter than Toyos? Are not Toyos a narrower tire?

Unfortunately, I am in that 90%. My wife says if I could lose 20# I'd be perfect. I tell her that fattery never hurts, but nobody likes a liar.