Roll cage bad bend?

[Tak]

Further headaches--it looks like the main hoop diagonal and cross tube are a different diameter than the main hoop. Those are all required to be the same size.
I'll second the comments on the welds--they look cold with poor penetration.

With a finger or a dental mirror, inspect for full circumfrence welds in all the tight locations (under the roof, behind the A-pillar, etc.

I tend to agree with the group--cut it out and and start over. Sorry.

[moe_1200]

Well folks after further review from all your help the curse words have begun fly. The welds are all of poor quality, there are gaps in the hard to reach areas. Not only that but after measuring the mounting plates they are only .040 thick! half of the required thickness, this cage is junk! I may as well be driving with a cage made out of empty beer cans and duct tape (full beer cans would be too structurally sound) I am in amazement with the awful construction of this cage. The lesson has been learned, never assume that a roll cage is of good quality if it comes from a quality shop. I don't want to release the name of the shop since they mainly specialize in drag racing so this may not be a fair evaluation in the quality of their workmanship. From talking to the owner of the shop (who built this car for himself) this cage was designed for an F-body car but modified to fit a Ford Probe. I'm not sure why a cage for an F-body which is heavier than a Probe was built so skimpy. Regardless it seems the wallet is going on a diet and i'm gonna have to evaluate my options. Any opinions on how to go forward with this would be greatly appreciated.

1. Completely remove this cage and install another
2. Use the other Ford Probe I have to install a cage and swap performance goodies from the current bad cage car
3. Sell as is to someone willing and move on to a car with logbook already issued!
4. Anything else I haven't thought of

[Xian]

Ouch. Yeah, there's really nothing there to salvage.

I'd strongly suggest #3 not only because you'll have a bit more of a "known quantity" WRT legality but you'll also save $$ vs. building your own. On top of this, it might allow you to pick a chassis that will be a bit more competitive in class. My suggestion would be to look at Honda, Mazda, and VW's as there are typically plenty of competitively classed cars on the market.

Christian

[Speed Raycer]

Ouch. I feel for you. If you're a Probe nut and absolutely MUST drive a Probe, #2 could be an option. Swap everything over to a fresh build then scrap value for the chassis. Otherwise, #3

Let us know your location and we can probably point you in the right direction for a quality cage or an already logbooked car.

[moe_1200]

I'm in northeast Indiana about 45 minutes north of Fort Wayne

[spnkzss]

I know it sucks and feel for you big time. Been there done that, luckily not on my dime. Could you please do someone else a favor and cut the thing up. You would feel horrible if you sold it as-is and heard someone got hurt because they weren't paying attention. I know, shame on them, but it's one thing to screw somebody out of money vs. life.

[betamotorsports]

Cut it up and make some monkey bars for your kids.

[Gibson]

I would go with Number 2, you may uncover other problems as you disassemble this car. Go Number 3 only if you are absolutely certain the car is sound, otherwise you are right back where you started.