Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Battery Disconnect Switches - what are you using?

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    I get mine from NAPA. I've had the one on my Daytona for about 8 yrs with no problems. And they are cheaper.
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Wauwatosa, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,658

    Default

    Scott, there is a partial thread on the specmiata.com/ site about disconnect switch failure. IIRC Dave Wheeler of Advanced Autosports stated that he has seen many failures with 4 post switches that have plastic included. As one would expect he claims he has never had or heard of a failure with the two post he sells.
    Have Fun ; )
    David Dewhurst
    CenDiv Milwaukee Region
    Spec Miata #14

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    IT.com "First Loser" Greensboro, NC USA
    Posts
    8,607

    Default

    Whatever you use, have a spare with you at all times. I've seen all of the most common types fail at one point or another.

    K

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1,499

    Default

    I had mine fail this past weekend but when it failed it resulted in NO power to the car at all. If it is failing because it is draining the battery while racing then that seems different. Maybe at some point it was hooked up wrong creating a possible surge to the alternator which has affected the resistor and or polarity of the alternator. I am not an electrical genius but this is kind of how it was explained to me when I did mine wrong years ago. When the car was running the alternator actually drew voltage from the battery instead of charging the battery. This resulted from turning off the kill switch while it was running creating what was explained as a "surge" that affected the resistor. (My alternator has a resistor built into it not separate as some other cars.) Not sure if this helps or not... could be just a bunch of BS that I got so I would purchase a new alternator. FYI that same kill switch with the new alternator and wired correctly has lasted for about 5 years on the outside of the car, through winters in the NE with the car stored outside until about 2 years ago. only issue I have is if I turn off the car and leave the kill switch on for 20 min it kills the battery and will not restart without a jump start. Never figured that out to this day!

    Stephen

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •