Mine is mounted in the same way, EXCEPT on the INSIDE. That way, there is a little protection. And I wired mine off of the fuse block using the radio fuse.
Mine is mounted in the same way, EXCEPT on the INSIDE. That way, there is a little protection. And I wired mine off of the fuse block using the radio fuse.
Mark
Montero Racing (CFR)
Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)
If you have to have a window - say there is something underneath the transponder, 6 inches is the best. Direct power is best. Possible loss of poer to the transponder when something you attach it to is not good if you attach it to something that also uses the power.
Power it from the car's battery (fused of course).
It doesn't draw much power and is on and off with your kill switch. Wiring it to any "shared" component can be trouble.
Don't wire it off the coil wiring. In the event that the HT wiring fails, that many thousands of volts is going somewhere. The transponder will not work after it takes a shot that was intended for a spark plug. Been there, done that.
hm.. thanks for the feedback. will ponder.. (mine is the direct wired variety)
Datadude, when I said "window" I meant the emitter sight window from the device... there is nothing below the mounting with the bumper on - its clear to the ground. I just wondered if the rail itself would shield the device too much or if it could "see" ok as mounted. Also wasn't sure if the device had to be rotated a certain way either (delivered instructions aren't very good)
Thanks.
Last edited by Spinnetti; 03-30-2009 at 09:01 PM.
You have the device oriented correctly. That is the same set-up on my car and it works fine. I believe most people mount the transponders like that.
Where is the best place to buy a transponder these days?
Rob Driscoll
ITS 25
NER
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