L Series, 240Z,260Z,280Z Billet Dampener/Pulleys Offered

[Ron Earp]

Hi Tom,

I'll save one for you, one pulley left. Check up in the earlier part of the thread for PayPal or check address.

Best,
Ron

[Ron Earp]

Mike, yours is out. Tom, yours is pending shipping/payment. One unit left, if nobody needs it I'll put it on Ebay later this afternoon.

Thanks all,
Ron

[Mike Mackaman]

Got mine last night, very nice. Although not enought to impress my wife or daughters, maybe if it had an MP3 player on it or something!!!

Very nice part, can't wait to put it on my car and make vroom sounds!!

Mike

[Ron Earp]

Glad you like it!!

One fellow asked about harmonic dampening and would this piece cause an issue in the regards. The two engine guys I've talked to about it, one of course being a well-known L series builder, Sam, and the other a very good V8 builder that machines my L series stuff for me, think no.

The stock piece is one hunk of metal and is heavier than this piece. However, race engine builders routinely fight on both ends of the crank (dampener, clutch, flyhweel, pressure plate) to reduce weight and have no ill effects. If the L series engine was going to be hurt by a reduction in crank pulley weight you'd also think it'd get hurt by a reduction in flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch weight. I dropped five pounds off my pressure plate and 1.5 pounds off my clutch, the sum total being much more than the difference in this piece from stock.

It is certainly a use at your own risk part but I think it is fine. The motor I have wearing one now has about 8 to 10 hours on it (one ECR, three SAARCs, plus associated practice and qualifiying for each) and seems to have no ill effects. Runs like a champ. The new motor Sam Neave is building for me is going to wear one also.

Ron

[Ron Earp]

One fellow asked about harmonic dampening and would this piece cause an issue in the regards. The two engine guys I've talked to about it, one of course being a well-known L series builder, Sam, and the other a very good V8 builder that machines my L series stuff for me, think no.

Just as an update - my motor now has a tad over 26 hours on it with this dampener and seems to be going strong. No leaks, no vibrations, things seem ok. Now I know that we'd have to pull it apart to really tell what is going on with the crank and bearings, but thus far the motor is still kicking.

Ron

[zzxracer]

hi ron...new to this site...focused mainly on gt racing..i'd like to try one of these on my 260z vintage engine...don't know if you have any left or if your going to make any more????,please let me know...e-mail is [email protected] thanks..Bill

[Ron Earp]

Hi Bill,

I might have one more in my race trailer. I'll check this weekend. I think I remember holding one back as a spare but since my prototype is still working just fine I can use it as a spare.

Ron

[Tom Donnelly]

Hi Tom,

I'll save one for you, one pulley left. Check up in the earlier part of the thread for PayPal or check address.

Best,
Ron

Ron,

Sending out the check tomorrow.

Thanks,

Tom

[Ron Earp]

Hey Tom,

Please send me your address and I'll send out the pulley.

Thanks!
Ron

[Mike Mackaman]

One thought on installation of this pulley or any other. If you get a replacement bolt from a fastener store and cut the head off, and then grind a generous fillet on the cut end, then do the same to some 1/2" or 3/4" acme thread rod and weld the two together with lots of heat. I actually center bored each for a roll pin to get them perfectly aligned, but I get that way some times. Then take a 4" section of 1 3/4" or 2", I don't remember which, roll bar tubing, weld a 3/16" plate over one end and then drill a hole in the end big enough for the acme threaded rod to fit through. Weld a 4-6" piece of 1" X 1/8" flat on for a handle, looking like an upside down L, with the handle on the same end that the plate is welded on. Thread the metric bold into the crank as far as it will go, put the pulley on as best you can, slide the tubing over the threaded rod and spin the nut on until it bottoms on the plate. Simply turn the acme threaded nut to drive the pulley onto the crank. This is a lot easier on the crank threads as you are not sliding on the threads and you are fully engaged. I have seen times using the stock bolt that there were only a few threads engaged. This can mess up a crank, and a day with it!

I haven't put the new pulley on, but it works great on the others.

Mike

[Tom Donnelly]

Hey Tom,

Please send me your address and I'll send out the pulley.

Thanks!
Ron

Tom Donnelly


Thanks Ron, the check's in the mail! (I had to say that)

[pablo]

Sanded down the inside bore a bit, make sure the key was seated down in the groove. placed pulley in toaster over set at 180 deg. ck temp increase with infrared temp gauge used heavy leather glove aling groove with key slide it in place waited a bit to cool down torqued to 100lbs. total time about 45 min including taking off the old one

[Tom Donnelly]

Ron,

Got the pulley. Thanks!

Tom