MKIII Camber Plates

[RHallRacing]

Hey guys,
Who makes the best Weld-In camber plates? While the car is getting caged, might as well weld in the plates

Thanks
Ryan Hall

[chewy8000]

Weld-in's from shine racing or bolt-ins from GC.

[RHallRacing]

thanx
looks like i have some ordering to do

[Knestis]

We went with the GC bolt-in units but our strut tops are giving up the ghost so will eventually need to repaired. I think I'd do weld-in plates if I were starting again.

K

[shwah]

I would modify the GC bolt in plates by adding a steel sub plate, which bolts to the original main aluminum plate. I would install the assembly by welding it to the strut tower.

[Lael Cleland]

I had 4 sets of plates cut out of 1/4in for a Mk1s, I only have mk4s,2s and 1s to look at here at the shop, they would fit a mk2...... BSI ones aint so good....depending on the BRAND of brg you want, dertermans the price of the things...

The plates are the exact same shape as a MK1 strut tower top...Any one? I have a mkIII coming in friday...will look....Mine are cheep, built by racers/crazy people...

[Lael Cleland]

I would modify the GC bolt in plates by adding a steel sub plate, which bolts to the original main aluminum plate. I would install the assembly by welding it to the strut tower.

Good point! I second that!

[Sandro]

I highly recommend the GC plates. The adjustment of camber and caster separately is great but the reason I think they are the only choice is because the weight isn't carried on the spherical bearing, but instead on a needle bearing.

[chewy8000]

The other plus with bolt in's is when you pack the car they can be easily switched to the new tub. But I guess at that point it would probably be the least of your worries.

[Knestis]

I would modify the GC bolt in plates by adding a steel sub plate, which bolts to the original main aluminum plate. I would install the assembly by welding it to the strut tower.

Exactly what I had in my head but didn't sufficiently explain when I dashed off my last response.

There's a reason this guy has one of the fasted ITB VWs in the nation.

K

[racer_tim]

I have the GC bolt in plates, but put them BELOW the shock tower, so they won't pull out, and only had to drill a couple of holes. I did loose some travel, but just had to run 7" springs instead of 8" ones.

[Eric Parham]

I've found that the weight can be carried on the spherical bearings without spitting out the Teflon sleeves if you simply order the bearings without sleeves. They need occasional grease, but are virtually indestructible.

I highly recommend the GC plates. The adjustment of camber and caster separately is great but the reason I think they are the only choice is because the weight isn't carried on the spherical bearing, but instead on a needle bearing.

[shwah]

That is the only way I would run the monoball to support the weight of the car, but you are still well beyond the design capacity of the bearing with that load. So, replace them preventatively more often IMO.

[JimLill]

I had some old BSI weld-in plates already in my A2 but the "guts" were shot. I found that the guts from these fit in and they have a needle thrust bearing option.

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=816
http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=313