A path that works on many cars is to start with
http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=0&...on%20Kit+Grant
adapt with:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...e=steerhubmomo
and use a
http://www.ltbmotorsports.com/ltbquicrelsp.html
A path that works on many cars is to start with
http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=0&...on%20Kit+Grant
adapt with:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...e=steerhubmomo
and use a
http://www.ltbmotorsports.com/ltbquicrelsp.html
Nice links Jim.
But stack those pieces together and the steering wheel may land up in your chest.
Probably the reason for the original question.
Okay, I took a closer look at our F Prod car today and Greg is right, I was ignorant. The welds I remembered were on an adapter, not the shaft.
Wow!!! An adapter bolted to another adapter which is bolted to another ect,ect,ect!!!!! I'd take a weld any day over that. And if they aren't legal, why are they allowed?
Not sure what that means. Things that are legal are allowed. Things that are not legal are not allowed.
It could be argued that you can weld something onto the end of the stock steering shaft. I don't see how anyone can argue that you can remove any of the stock shaft (which was the original question.)
Josh Sirota
ITR '99 BMW Z3 Coupe
For my Honda, I used a Momo bolt-on adapter and then an LTB Quick Release. It adds about 6" to the shaft length but I'm using a low-dish wheel in place of the factory unit. The end result is a wheel maybe 3" closer to the driver. In my case this is good b/c I can actually move my seat back far enough to give some extra leg room.
Christian
Christian in FL | Something white with Honda on the valve cover...
FASTtech Limited- DL1, Schroth, & Recaro Goodness
LTB Motorsports- The Cheapest Place for Momo
TrackSpeed Motorsports- OMP, Racetech, & Driver Gear
Have to disagree with Greg here. Steering shafts are not tempered really, they are case hardened for wear and the inner 95% is soft. RB 44-48 on a Mazda. A proper filler rod with a tig on the large diameter of the shaft is just as strong as any adapter. Control the heat and do not weld to the small threaded area. But then I might be ignorant as well.:026:
PS. If you have to ask on this forum how to weld it please take it to a professional so you don't end up holding a wheel with no car attached.
Last edited by seckerich; 03-01-2009 at 01:20 AM.
Steve Eckerich
ITS 18 Speedsource RX7
ITR RX8 (under construction)
Nah, I'll defer to you on that, as I'm only half-sure on the process. However, I am sure they're heat-treated in some way and that improper welding can affect that, and I am very confident that welding on parts to them is neither a good idea nor compliant to the rules (as I described above and in those other linked threads.)
But, it's not one of those "areas" that's worth getting all riled up about (unless you're a stickler for rules as we tend to be...) - GA
Jeff L
ITA Miata
2010 NARRC Champion
2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
2008 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
Personally, I'm not too hot on having 15 bolts in single shear (3+6+6) but we all have stories and documented proof of the successes and failures of both weld and bolt-on applications. whatever path you choose, do it right, use a professional if you aren't sure, and don't cut anything OFF of the stock shaft and you'll be safe AND legal.
and I agree with Christian - moving the wheel back is often desireable. (on our prod car the shaft is extended 7", the seat is back ~8", and the pedals are back ~3" from stock. makes for a great seating position.)
Go to your local dirt track and you will see 99% of the cars with weld'd on quick releases. Those guys beat the snot out of those cars and I have yet to see a shaft break. They put more stress on their car in one night that a SCCA car does in a life time.
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