So where does the GCR say that you can remove anything to install the QR?
So where does the GCR say that you can remove anything to install the QR?
Scott Rhea
Izzy's Custom Cages
It's not what you build... It's how you build it
Performance Driven LLC
Neon Racing Springs
These days, why does anyone use weld-on QRs anyway?
Safer and cheaper.
Jeff L
ITA Miata
2010 NARRC Champion
2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
2008 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
I don't know if it is legal or not, haven't studied it yet as I will probably go with the stock wheel at first, I was just answering the question "why weld?"
A good weld is stronger than bolts, and cheaper and easier than buying or fabbing adapter plates.
You're wrong in both regards, in context. You're arguably "right" that it's cheaper. Though most QRs cost about $50, so I'm not sure how much money you'd save versus time and risk.
I (as a tech inspector) have personally seen where the shaft broke as a result of a weld-on QR. Steering shafts are made of tempered steel, and by welding on them you are weakening them. Further, the one that I saw failed along the threads where the initial wheel was bolted on, due to forces in that area that it was never designed to handle (those threads are to keep a wheel from moving longitudinally along the shaft, not to resist bending loads. May as well have cut a notch in the shaft and labeled it "break here").
And arguing that a weld is strong than a bolt is...can I call it "ignorant" in the true sense of the word without unintended insult? The "forces" that a steering wheel are subjected to have nothing at all to do with bolting versus welding, as the bolts are only there to keep the wheels from sliding off the splines (which, by the way, you'd be bypassing. Which do you think is stronger in torsion: a questionable weld on a tempered shaft, or splines?)
But, to the rules question at hand.
You cannot remove or modify anything to install a steering wheel quick release. In point of fact, steering wheel quick releases aren't even explicitly allowed in the rules. However, "steering wheels can be replaced" thus the QR is technically a part of your replacement steering wheel.
Thus within the scope of the IT rules, replacement of parts do not allow modifications of other parts to install them. As such, the original sentence stands: nothing else can be removed or modified to install them.
Neither am I, but we've gone through this argument before, and pretty much decided to let this sleeping dog lie...i'm not convinced welding on the steering column is legal.......
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And arguing that a weld is strong than a bolt is...can I call it "ignorant" in the true sense of the word without unintended insult?
Absolutely. Not willing to concede the point without further investigation, but that implies obvious ignorance on my part, doesn't it? As long as we all remember than ignorance is fixable, I am cool with it.
I would put a little smiley deal here but I have hated those fucking things since I saw the first one in the sixties.
A path that works on many cars is to start with
http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=0&...on%20Kit+Grant
adapt with:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...e=steerhubmomo
and use a
http://www.ltbmotorsports.com/ltbquicrelsp.html
Nice links Jim.
But stack those pieces together and the steering wheel may land up in your chest.
Probably the reason for the original question.
For my Honda, I used a Momo bolt-on adapter and then an LTB Quick Release. It adds about 6" to the shaft length but I'm using a low-dish wheel in place of the factory unit. The end result is a wheel maybe 3" closer to the driver. In my case this is good b/c I can actually move my seat back far enough to give some extra leg room.
Christian
Christian in FL | Something white with Honda on the valve cover...
FASTtech Limited- DL1, Schroth, & Recaro Goodness
LTB Motorsports- The Cheapest Place for Momo
TrackSpeed Motorsports- OMP, Racetech, & Driver Gear
Jeff L
ITA Miata
2010 NARRC Champion
2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
2008 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
Personally, I'm not too hot on having 15 bolts in single shear (3+6+6) but we all have stories and documented proof of the successes and failures of both weld and bolt-on applications. whatever path you choose, do it right, use a professional if you aren't sure, and don't cut anything OFF of the stock shaft and you'll be safe AND legal.
and I agree with Christian - moving the wheel back is often desireable. (on our prod car the shaft is extended 7", the seat is back ~8", and the pedals are back ~3" from stock. makes for a great seating position.)
Go to your local dirt track and you will see 99% of the cars with weld'd on quick releases. Those guys beat the snot out of those cars and I have yet to see a shaft break. They put more stress on their car in one night that a SCCA car does in a life time.
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