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Thread: Bleeder screws seizing on FC front calipers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    564

    Default Bleeder screws seizing on FC front calipers

    Anyone have this issue? I flush my fluid after each weekend. Never have an issue with the rears but just busted both right and left bleeder screws on the fronts again. The calipers on the car are less than 6 months old and have 3 weekends on them. Both bleeder screws snapped and it's happened before.

    I know which way is tighten and which is loosen. I am very cognizant of which direction to turn them when bleeding.

    Should I use anti-seize or ? Are they getting too hot? Any ideas.
    Mark B. - Dallas, TX
    #76 RX-7 2nd Gen
    SCCA EP
    Former ITS, ITE, NASA PT

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    raymond NH
    Posts
    623

    Default

    The problem is aluminum calipers and steel bleeders,time heat elemants all add to this. Does your car have alum calipers,and what thread pitch are they. Capital speed sells replacement bleeders for calipers,the trick is its a npt thread into the caliper and its machined with a smaller bleed screw in side. like a bushing or reducer. They cost 2.50 and its easier to replace them then buying calipers. Speedway motors has them too.page 117 2009 oval track catalog.
    Dan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Floyds Knobs, IN
    Posts
    1,093

    Default

    I've never had one break off in a Mazda caliper but I had a Toyota that broke multiple bleeders. Broke two off in reman calipers that were straight from the parts house! On my RX-7 I always used some thread sealing paste on the threads. I know the threads aren't sealing the brake fluid but, since I use a vacuum bleeder on occasion, I like to make sure the bleeder isn't pulling air around the threads. Don't know if having that paste on the threads ever saved me an issue or not. Other than that one Toyota I've never had this problem on another car, paste or not, knock on wood! They don't require a great deal of torque to seal. Is it possible you're tightening them too tightly?
    Chris Ludwig
    GL Lakes Div
    www.ludwigmotorsports.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    564

    Default

    In the past I was just buying reman ones as the fronts are only $32.99 each with core at my local auto parts store. This time I got them to do a warranty exchange. I don't think I want to try and re-tap with sleeves, plus some of the reman ones already have sleeves.

    I will try thread paste as I also use a vaccuum bleeder, good idea. Maybe I do torque them down to much, I'll try a little less on these new ones.

    Yes, the Mazda fronts are aluminum and the bleeders steel.
    Mark B. - Dallas, TX
    #76 RX-7 2nd Gen
    SCCA EP
    Former ITS, ITE, NASA PT

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Might also look at getting speed bleeders. They sell a stainless valve for just the reason you mentioned. They also recommend the use of sealant on a semi regular basis as it does wear off.

    *edit* can't post url's yet. speedbleeder dot com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    564

    Default

    I've heard of Speed Bleeders but never had looked into them. Just read up and then ordered a full set. If you break a bleeder you can send them the caliper and they will fix it for free. They even return ship it for free. Plus, I was not really that fond of my cheap vacuum bleeder.
    Mark B. - Dallas, TX
    #76 RX-7 2nd Gen
    SCCA EP
    Former ITS, ITE, NASA PT

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