Porsche 968 story

[benspeed]

Yup - so far a $1000 for all in - including the crane expenses - that's a new line item now on the spreadsheet - ah ahem.....

cam chains/pads - $300
Timing belt - $600
water pump - $200
Suspension - $2500
cage $3000
Setup $250
Chip $100
Exhaust - Dan - you da man - I'll save that $$$$ - RSBarn can net me 10 hp for $1200 - that can wait

So - got a few bucks to spend. Just throw another thou on top of that for whatevers. That'll net me a very nice car. Oh - forgot the bloody wheels - another thou. Two set of 17 inch tires $2400 - I refuse to total this out! I do not see the money evaporating from my bank lalalalalalalalala

Yep - I will be racing ITS this season whilst I single handedly attemp to recover the economy myself with the new Phillips Racing Bailout Plan - but there are requirements to how this bailout will be structured and beer will influence how the funds will be allocated

I'd like to get the 968 out for testing by the end of the summer. Dang - that means I must race Matt and he's got that new fangled $1000 ecu thingamig I now probably have to buy......maybe a coke habit would be cheaper

Actually - I'm such a good bamboozler - I'll do it all for 25 cents on the dollar what you chumps would pay

[dj10]

Yup - so far a $1000 for all in - including the crane expenses - that's a new line item now on the spreadsheet - ah ahem.....

cam chains/pads - $300
Timing belt - $600
water pump - $200
Suspension - $2500
cage $3000
Setup $250
Chip $100
Exhaust - Dan - you da man - I'll save that $$$$ - RSBarn can net me 10 hp for $1200 - that can wait

Ben, I'll save you some more $. Don't waste it on cam chains, I've never heard of any breaking ever. I think your low on the suspension and unless you acutally see a side by side dyno test, don't believe the 10 hp thingy. A $100 chip can't be doing to much either.

[benspeed]

Thanks Dan - I just got off the phone with my Porsche guys and yep - they said fast supsension for $2500 - very fast for $3500. That and the timing belt will be it for this quarter. And a lovely Maaco paint job for $200 :-)

Guys who are selling the exhuast parts always have a recommended trick and guys who don't sell them say don't waste the $$ - the stock system is excellent.

How about bars - M030 or Welmeister?

[dj10]

Thanks Dan - I just got off the phone with my Porsche guys and yep - they said fast supsension for $2500 - very fast for $3500. That and the timing belt will be it for this quarter. And a lovely Maaco paint job for $200 :-)

Guys who are selling the exhuast parts always have a recommended trick and guys who don't sell them say don't waste the $$ - the stock system is excellent.

How about bars - M030 or Welmeister?

Ben,
I've had both on my cup car, I went the fastest with the M030 & it's lighter (1.12 @ Nelson Ledges and it went 1.11.5 another time, 5 years ago w/ stock headers). If I had the car again I would upgrade to the best suspension I could afford. BTW, if they don't ask for corner weights, ride height's and other important infor like what kind of tires you need to run, be suspect of their suspension.

[ulfelder]

So far $1000 .....

cam chains/pads - $300
Timing belt - $600
water pump - $200
Suspension - $2500
cage $3000
Setup $250
Chip $100
Just throw another thou on top of that for whatevers. That'll net me a very nice car. Oh - forgot the bloody wheels - another thou. Two set of 17 inch tires $2400.

So Ben, you're going to go IT racing ... in a Porsche, for God's sake ... for $12,350, give or take (I added your extra thou from a later post)?

You are comedy gold, my man. Suggestion: multiply by 3.5 just to get yourself in the right ZIP code.

Better yet, give that RX-7 a Flatout tuneup and run up front in ITS all year ...

Steve

[924Guy]

LOL... I'd have sold you a fast, championship-winning, ARRC podium Porsche IT car for $12k...

As for suspension - I would not waste my time with the Konis. Get the Bilstein suspension, and have it valved to suit you.

I would also definitely recommend getting the 34mm hollow torsion bars from Paragon, as much more as that car weighs (mine loves 'em).

For header, I have heard good things about the Stahl header, but that was for the 2.5L. Not certain about the benefit on the 3.0L. Certainly the stock header is good.

Give a shout if you need tips on making a front-Porche go fast...

[benspeed]

Well - I'm all about the entertainment value to my fellow racers.

Stevo - no plans to sell the Mazda quite yet - it's been fully gone over and it ready to race as she sits. I know I'm a glutton for financial punishment with the P car but it will be very fast.

I was on the phone with Russ Jones yesterday and he made some very good points about not building the blue car but going with the black one which already has M030 everything, decent Konis and probably just needs front coil overs a 30 mm torsion bar, cage and it would be track ready - not front running material yet, but on the track.

I ran the numbers including cost of car and came up saving $2k at the end of the day building the black one and if I sell the blue car for about $3500 I can fund most of what I need to do.

So - I will be getting a title for the blue car and putting it up for sale to fund development of the black car. Anybody on this forum want is first - I make special deal.

Thanks for the pointers on the suspension - the stuff you guys are telling me is the same stuff I'm hearing from the guys at Farnbacher Lowles and Power Tech.

Cheers

[dj10]

No Koni's Ben!

[Russ Jones]

...and the black car has a limited slip too.

[lateapex911]

What's up with the koni hate?

[Ron Earp]

I was on the phone with Russ Jones yesterday and he made some very good points about not building the blue car but going with the black one which already has M030 everything, decent Konis and probably just needs front coil overs a 30 mm torsion bar, cage and it would be track ready - not front running material yet, but on the track.

Hey Ben,

I am not a Porsche guru at all but Jeff and I did have Jakes old 944 S2 that we spent a lot of time evaluating for ITR and investigating parts. As Vaughn says, that M030 stuff is not up to serious racing work and you'd be better off not paying money for those parts. Yes, you might be on track but you'll be tossing them soon and buying something else which will probably cost you money in the long run.

In the end we sold the S2 (we still thought it a better choice than the 968, various reasons, most of which is that variable intake runner doesn't come into play for racing, weight is lower, brakes are great of either) and became slightly frightened of parts costs. We're used to paying like $67 for an engine gasket kit, not $400. $87 for a timing set instead of $750, and so on.

Cool cars though, I hope you gets yours on track. I'm not a Porsche Faithful drinking the 911 Coolaid and think a 968 at all levels of prep can be a serious race car. I tihnk I still have some articles from English magazines comparing the 968 and S2. Shoot me an email and I'll forward them to you.

Ron

[lateapex911]

I'm not a Porsche Faithful drinking the 911 Coolaid and ....
Ron

You dissin' a 911 Ron??

man I oughta get one and make it go...

[Ron Earp]

You dissin' a 911 Ron??

man I oughta get one and make it go...

Well, if you started to design a sports car and had a clean sheet of paper you probably wouldn't hang the engine out back of the car and put the tranny in the middle. You'd do something logical and put the engine in the middle like, oh, wait! Porsche did that with the Caymen like it was brand new or something! Everyone else has been designing mid engine sports cars for 50 years.....

And barring sticking the engine in the middle you'd probably put it in the front with the transmission in the rear.....like a 944!

And no matter what you did you damn sure wouldn't put the engine and transmission in the front of the car. That is plain nutz.

Just sayin....

[924Guy]

You dissin' a 911 Ron??

LOL... triumph of German bloody-mindedness over basic physics!!! :026:

By contrast... my wife's taking my 924 through driver's school this spring!

[924Guy]

Yeah, getting that whole rear suspension as a unit is a real time-saver, as well as money - great! Though I would definitely have recommended bigger t-bars, but those will at least do you well enough - basically what I'd consider the min allowable for true wheel-to-wheel racing. Used to run 30's, now on 34's. Good find on the shocks, too - sounds like you've got the foundation for a great, solid car right out of the box!

Keep up the good work!