1st Engine Build

[RacerBill]

OK, I have waited as long as I can. I am getting ready to do my 1st engine rebuild. The engine that I have to work with is a spare Shelby engine I bought when I needed some linkage parts. Everything seems to revolve freely.

Not ever having rebuild an engine, I have no idea where to start. The transmission is on the reace car now, and I removed the clutch and flywheel on order to attach the block to an engine stand. Got a box of zip lock bags and labels for all the fasteners.

I will call the machine shop tomorrow to find out how far to disassemble for what I want to do.

So, all you guys who have done this before, where do you start, and what tricks do you use for a successful rebuild. (and having someone else do it is not an answer, at least for me!).

Thanks

[924Guy]

Definitely balance, blueprint, get the valves done (fresh valve job, or at least scrape the valves clean of any deposits and re-lap them in), check or replace valve springs... that's a start...

[quadzjr]

The first question is "what do you want to do". Without that.. it is kinda hard to answer.

[RacerBill]

Fresh engine - good power, not a hand grenade! I have been running with the engine that came in the car when I bought it back in 2001. Time to get some more power, and boot that car in the boot!

[RacerBill]

Definitely balance, blueprint, get the valves done (fresh valve job, or at least scrape the valves clean of any deposits and re-lap them in), check or replace valve springs... that's a start...

How about port matching the head in addition to the valves?

[MMiskoe]

The machine shop will want everything removed so they have fewer parts to keep track of. Just remember that you're paying them XXX dollars per hour to do what ever needs to be done.

Go look around for books on the subject. A guy named Tom Monroe wrote one that is pretty thorough and easy to read.

Keeping things clean while it goes together is a priority. Get a good beam type torque wrench. Don't touch bearings or bearing surfaces w/ your fingers. Do not be in a rush to do anything, take your time & be sure its right.

You've kind of asked an open ended question so its hard to provide specific details. I'm sure there are lots of things people can offer that they wished they didn't do which could be much more entertaining.

[joeg]

Read the shop manual on "Engine/ Powertrain". As pointed out above, find buy and read books on engine building.

All the tips in such books are useful, even if the book is written about small block Chevys, or whatever. Why? because they all start with disassemby, inspection and cleaning, etc. (the basics).

Get yourself any special tools noted in the shop manual. They can be found cheap on eBay.

On any rebuild, get all gasket and seal kits off of eBAY--good deals can be had.

Always replace your waterpump, oil pump and timing stuff. LOOK FOR A NEW cam and lifters.

Buy an engine stand or two--they are not expensive.

[splats]

Depending what year the block & heads are, MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE OIL RESTRICTOR PLUG IN THE BLOCK (OR HEAD). It only took me 4 engine grenades before we found the problem. Its a $5.00 part that cost me thousands. Without it, it will pump all the oil to the head & starve the crank yet still have 50+ psi. If you use the factory head from THAT block, you should be ok. If not, check it. Apparently, this is unique to the 2.2/2.5 mopars. And for the rule nerds, its a factory installed plug that just pops into the oil passage TO the head. No rules creep or violation.

[RacerBill]

Yes, the engine being rebuilt is on a stand. That was requirement #1.