Originally Posted by
JeffYoung
I don't think it matters which circuit gets actuated first, but if you switch them buy a cheap line pressure gauge and make sure you get 500-600 lbs or so at the rear drums and 1100+ at the fronts. Easy to do.
I would either remove the stock proportioning valve and plumb in an adjustable or use the one that coorelates to the master cylinder you are using.
+1, I am by no means a hydraulic expert but it shouldn't matter.
The replacement cylinder should be marked, as the oem, with F for front and R for rear circuitry. There should also be a bore size marked on the cylinder. 7/8" covers up to the ZX's I think and they went to a larger bore.
Remove the OEM distribution/proportioning valve and plumb straight to the brakes. Install a in car bias valve for the rear brakes, driver accessible, and make sure the parking brake and cable assembly is installed. Use the parking brake to adjust the rears when the pedal starts getting soft during a race.
good luck, and make sure you have cooling ducts to the fronts, at least 2
just saw your update:
Wheel cylinders are not the same depending on the year. Later ones are easier to come by. Calipers are the same.
Paul Ballance
Tennessee Valley Region (yeah it's in Alabama)
ITS '72
1972 240Z
"Experience is what you get when you're expecting something else." unknown
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