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  1. #1
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    Default Door gutting

    Carpets, center consoles, floor mats, headliners, sun roof liner and frame, dome lights, grab handles, and their insulating, attaching or operating mechanisms may be removed. Door interior trim panels may be replaced with 0.060” aluminum securely attached to the door. All other interior trim panels, except the dashboard, may be removed. Other than to provide for the installation of required safety equipment or other authorized
    modifications, no other driver/passenger compartment alterations or gutting are permitted.

    I have read the rule above over and over again I get no answer from what I am reading. Are we allowed to take the window and the window regulator out of the doors? This might be a dumb question but I need to know for prepping my car. My educated guess is that the window should be removed for safety but regulators I do not have the slightest clue. Also do you have to put 0.060" aluminum panels on the doors after you remove the factory door panels? Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by jwesleyc3; 10-31-2008 at 03:51 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default

    2008 GCR
    pg 97
    9.4.D.
    D. SIDE PROTECTION
    Two side tubes connecting the front and rear hoops across both door openings are mandatory. NASCAR-style side protection or one bar bisecting another to form an “X” is permitted. Door side tubes may extend into the door. In American Sedan, Improved Touring, Showroom
    Stock, Spec Miata, and Touring the door window glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel, armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The stock side impact beam and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified unless specifically authorized in the category rules.
    Spanky | #73 ITA 1990 Honda Civic WDCR SOLD | #73 ITA 1995 Honda Civic WDCR in progress |
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  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spnkzss View Post
    2008 GCR
    pg 97
    9.4.D.
    D. SIDE PROTECTION
    Two side tubes connecting the front and rear hoops across both door openings are mandatory. NASCAR-style side protection or one bar bisecting another to form an “X” is permitted. Door side tubes may extend into the door. In American Sedan, Improved Touring, Showroom
    Stock, Spec Miata, and Touring the door window glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel, armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The stock side impact beam and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified unless specifically authorized in the category rules.
    I just looked at your build pictures and they was very educational. I use to hate the winter months but now I know why they exist. Time to build my car with some confidence!
    1985 Mazda RX-7
    Future ITA/7

  4. #4
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    Default

    I preferred to keep the windows in so ran the door bar right up to the door's inner structural panel. I cut the OEM door card, and added the alum below the area where the bar hits.

    Not quite the question, but another option.


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLill View Post
    I preferred to keep the windows in so ran the door bar right up to the door's inner structural panel. I cut the OEM door card, and added the alum below the area where the bar hits.

    Not quite the question, but another option.

    Just when I was going to ask another question about the location for the windshield cross tube your picture answered it for me.
    1985 Mazda RX-7
    Future ITA/7

  6. #6
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    Mar 2005
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    Tampa, Fl, USA
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    Default

    Another option to ponder.......... My dash-bar is at the middle door-bar & behind/in the dash
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  7. #7
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    Tampa, Fl, USA
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    Default

    With-out Bars going into door------ NO
    WITH Bars going into door---------- YES
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  8. #8
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    Default

    Wow I guess I missed reading that page thanks for the quick replies. OK I am now confused. I cannot gut the door unless I have bars that extend into the door?

  9. #9
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    Default

    If it is a new car you can gut the door only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The aluminum panel applies if you do not gut the door, but want to remove the oem door panels. I guess you could make an argument that even with the door gutting you sould cover any remaining part of the door with the aluminum panel, but I don't think I've ever seen that done.
    Earl R.
    240SX
    ITA/ST5

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erlrich View Post
    If it is a new car you can gut the door only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The aluminum panel applies if you do not gut the door, but want to remove the oem door panels. I guess you could make an argument that even with the door gutting you sould cover any remaining part of the door with the aluminum panel, but I don't think I've ever seen that done.
    Ok thanks a million!

  11. #11

    Default

    Here's an example of leagal door gutting.................



    Dave Dusterberg
    ITA#9 Dodge Neon
    2011 Indy Region SCCA Activities Director
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  12. #12
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    Hmmm...neon??
    Jake Gulick


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  13. #13
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    Default

    Thanks for the picture example. Now I am on the right track.
    1985 Mazda RX-7
    Future ITA/7

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lateapex911 View Post
    Hmmm...neon??
    Yup.

    Dave Dusterberg
    ITA#9 Dodge Neon
    2011 Indy Region SCCA Activities Director
    http://www.indyscca.org

  15. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erlrich View Post
    I guess you could make an argument that even with the door gutting you sould cover any remaining part of the door with the aluminum panel, but I don't think I've ever seen that done.
    My car is built that way.

    Last edited by JoshS; 10-31-2008 at 11:51 PM. Reason: Better photo
    Josh Sirota
    ITR '99 BMW Z3 Coupe

  16. #16
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    Default

    I think the intent of the aluminum panel rule is that if your door isn't gutted, there will still be glass in the door (when the window's rolled down for racing). If the inner door liner is removed, there are likely openings that could allow the glass to get to the driver in case of impact. This should help keep it a little more under control.

    Let's not get into the topic of the rest of the glass in the car...
    Vaughan Scott
    Detroit Region #280052
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  17. #17
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    Default

    The one thing you want to make sure you DON"T do is to remove the factory door guard/bar that is attached to the door skin and runs the length of the door. Tech is REALLY getting picky about them being there. That was what started all the hoohaa at the Dual National at Nelson with the Miata drivers.
    Bryan KF8G
    Nelson Ledges Road Course
    #16 IT7 Mazda
    "There you go man. Keep as cool as you can. Face piles of trials with smiles. It riles them to believe, you perceive, the web they weave. And keep on thinking freely"
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  18. #18
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    As well they should. It's VERY clear in the rules that it be left, so it's a big no no to remove it, and rather silly too.
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
    IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
    Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
    BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
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    lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com


  19. #19
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan KF8G View Post
    Tech is REALLY getting picky about them being there.
    The nerve of them enforcing one of the more obvious rules
    Scott Rhea
    Izzy's Custom Cages
    It's not what you build... It's how you build it
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    Neon Racing Springs

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
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    Default

    Another door-gutting related question.

    If I've got power locks and windows, the wiring harnesses for these features need to remain in the door even if the actual motors have been removed, correct?

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