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Thread: Greatest towing window idea

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    70

    Default Greatest towing window idea

    There was a towing window thread on here long ago, and I tried a few of the ideas and was never really happy with any of them. I had the plastic window but it always needed some tape to keep it in place and if i towed more than a few hours it started coming loose and I always ended up taking it out (which would then cause it to rain).

    So in prep for moving the car cross-country I was thinking of how to just use the glass window. And it was rediculously easy and worked awesome! It made the 2500+ mile tow from Ohio to Oregon without a hitch. This may not be as easy for non-CRXen but could be a start.

    The bottom of the window has threaded inserts for the window regulator. I wanted to put bolts through the door panel to hold it up by those inserts.

    I used the door stop trick from a earlier idea to keep the window against the seal.



    I only had to drill one hole as the forward hole was already there for a plastic clip.



    The rear hole was through a double layer panel, but a uni-bit made quick work of that.



    I then threaded in two M6 fastners (yes they are too long, don't laugh at the washers, I thought I might need them) till the threads bottomed out.

    That's it! There, now I've given back to the community.
    Ian

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    92

    Default

    You get the " GOOD THINKER'S AWARD "
    Since my car was underweight, I just left all the door stuff in place, and wound the window up and locked the door.
    CM
    Gettin' old aint for wimps

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Hubertus, WI, USA
    Posts
    821

    Default

    I use something similar, in that I use the rubber door stops to hold a plexiglass window in place, but then I secure the window with a 2"x1" strip of wood about 18-24" long. The wood rests on the window ledge on the inside and has a rabit on one edge that fits between the window and the ledge. I use thumb screws with large washers to go thru the window and into the wooden strip. The wooden strip has threaded inserts so I don't have to fumble around looking for nuts. Everything goes together by hand.

    Basically the rubber door stops just hold everything in place until I can can secure the strip of wood. You could omit them, but then you need another set of hands to tighten everything up.
    Last edited by Greg Gauper; 09-14-2008 at 10:43 AM.
    2002 Cen-Div ITC Champ
    (Converted to G-Prod in 2003)
    (Bumped to H-Prod in 2008)
    2008, 2011 HP Cen-Div Champ
    2011 HP National Champ

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Wandering the USA
    Posts
    1,341

    Default

    Mine was inspired by Greg's. I used some thick plexiglass (or lexan, not sure), heated it with a torch and formed it to the shape of the stock window. Drilled several holes on a horizontal line a couple inches above the bottom of the opening. Long bolts are permanently mounted through the holes with washers & nuts, with open threads facing outward. The window slips into the factory track and the bolts give me something to pull it up tightly into the weatherstripping. Then a 2x4 slips over the bolts, resting on the door, locking the window into position. Wing nuts hold the 2x4 on.

    Since I can't open my door when the car's on the trailer it's important that the window is installed and removed from the outside with the door closed.
    Marty Doane
    ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
    2016 Winnebago Journey (home)

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