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Thread: After-market Radiator??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
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    83

    Question After-market Radiator??

    Is anyone using an Aluminum racing radiator in a 1st gen Neon???? I'm having problems finding a good yet reasonably priced one. The only one so far is a CSF brand 2-core. Is CSF a good choice?? Or is KOYO better?? Is there a better one?? And how about sources?? Will a 2nd or 3rd gen work??
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    134

    Default

    I put the CSF in my twincam, that is the only direct fit welded race rad I could find. It seems to be a nice piece, fits properly, and eliminated the temp spikes I was suffering from. The car still runs hotter than I would like, but at least now it is stable at 220 on a 80 plus degree day, measured with a proper gauge, with the sender right below the thermostat. And that is running hard on a fairly fast track, using water with one jug of water wetter in the cooling system. Its back to 180 by the end of the cooldown lap.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2005
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    Tampa, Fl, USA
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    Thanks................. My problem is that an 80 degree day is a COOL day, 90+ is more typical. I was burying the stock gauge unless I short-shift for 2 laps (Daytona/Sebring). Then I could race again for 2-3 laps before short-shifting again. The CSF MIGHT work, but I'd like to keep it around 200-210. Wishful thinking ????
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Basking Ridge, NJ, USA
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    267

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    I cant speak to your particular application but KOYO is a repudable brand and has great results on our spec miata. Worth a look.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    134

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    Don't trust the stock dash gauge. The needle never moves from the middle of the range from 170 to 230. It goes top the top of the normal zone from 230 to 240, then into the hot zone.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by splats View Post
    Thanks................. My problem is that an 80 degree day is a COOL day, 90+ is more typical. I was burying the stock gauge unless I short-shift for 2 laps (Daytona/Sebring). Then I could race again for 2-3 laps before short-shifting again. The CSF MIGHT work, but I'd like to keep it around 200-210. Wishful thinking ????
    im selling my usd csf alum 2" - $246 plus shipping from 27596- should have picts tomorrow.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Tampa, Fl, USA
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    Thanks sstecker for the offer,,, but I can get a new one locally for $330 with no shipping or tax. How did it work in your car?? Also, was yours a SOHC or DOHC?? And what part of the country??
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    92

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    Hey Mark,
    Just drive slower and the overheat problems go away.
    You know I have never had an overheat situation:cool:
    Probably never will.
    Carlos
    Gettin' old aint for wimps

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
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    Carlos,
    You also drove the WHOLE track with your left-turn signal on in the fast lane....
    Just remember, you DON'T have to show your AARP card at tech..........
    I better be nice or you'll grid me with the big-boys (GT1,AS,etc)......

    When are you going to be at the track???????
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by splats View Post
    Thanks sstecker for the offer,,, but I can get a new one locally for $330 with no shipping or tax. How did it work in your car?? Also, was yours a SOHC or DOHC?? And what part of the country??
    sohc and it worked great in the south east. ran the csf without a fan - just dont sit still for long

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    92

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    Mark,
    My radiator was oe for air conditioned car.
    I used one fan, and 180 thermostat, with the fan wired to run all the time.

    Yes, my turn signal often gets stuck in traffic, and I get lots of horn blasts for driving slow in the fast lane,, but,, I never got to do what I wanted to do in retirement.
    I wanted to go up North, and drive slow, while looking at a road map.

    I jumped the fence, and rented an ITB Golf for Turkey Trot weekend.

    Maybe it was built in the US, and, before you say it, I know turn 15 at Sebring actually does turn!
    Carlos
    Gettin' old aint for wimps

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
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    sstecker,
    Thanks. That helps.

    Carlos,
    I may be there as 'Flat-Tow-3', so I'm sure I'll see you a bunch.
    You'll learn... "Once you go MOPAR, you never go back"...........
    Anything but a V-Dub.... now that hurts............
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by sstecker View Post
    im selling my usd csf alum 2" - $246 plus shipping from 27596- should have picts tomorrow.
    updated price : $190 shipped

    needs new drain plug – it was aluminum on aluminum and I had to drain some fluid last time out and it gulled and then head broke off trying to tighten back. A few bent fins but front pict is as it came off car no cleaning - bugs free of charge. Originally was going to move it to my bmw gts 3 car but want a smaller/thick dual pass.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by sstecker View Post
    updated price : $190 shipped

    needs new drain plug – it was aluminum on aluminum and I had to drain some fluid last time out and it gulled and then head broke off trying to tighten back. A few bent fins but front pict is as it came off car no cleaning - bugs free of charge. Originally was going to move it to my bmw gts 3 car but want a smaller/thick dual pass.
    Post some pics...... Also, is the female part of the plug good or does that also need replacing
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by splats View Post
    Post some pics...... Also, is the female part of the plug good or does that also need replacing

    these are picts after pulling from car, didnt clean it up or anything - few bent fins, a few bugs and head broken off drain plug.

    i just drilled the old drain plug and ran a 1/4-18npt tap thru it - threads looking good. there is plenty of metal left if you have to oversize female hole.




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