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Thread: After-market Radiator??

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
    83

    Question After-market Radiator??

    Is anyone using an Aluminum racing radiator in a 1st gen Neon???? I'm having problems finding a good yet reasonably priced one. The only one so far is a CSF brand 2-core. Is CSF a good choice?? Or is KOYO better?? Is there a better one?? And how about sources?? Will a 2nd or 3rd gen work??
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    134

    Default

    I put the CSF in my twincam, that is the only direct fit welded race rad I could find. It seems to be a nice piece, fits properly, and eliminated the temp spikes I was suffering from. The car still runs hotter than I would like, but at least now it is stable at 220 on a 80 plus degree day, measured with a proper gauge, with the sender right below the thermostat. And that is running hard on a fairly fast track, using water with one jug of water wetter in the cooling system. Its back to 180 by the end of the cooldown lap.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
    83

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    Thanks................. My problem is that an 80 degree day is a COOL day, 90+ is more typical. I was burying the stock gauge unless I short-shift for 2 laps (Daytona/Sebring). Then I could race again for 2-3 laps before short-shifting again. The CSF MIGHT work, but I'd like to keep it around 200-210. Wishful thinking ????
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Basking Ridge, NJ, USA
    Posts
    267

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    I cant speak to your particular application but KOYO is a repudable brand and has great results on our spec miata. Worth a look.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by splats View Post
    Thanks................. My problem is that an 80 degree day is a COOL day, 90+ is more typical. I was burying the stock gauge unless I short-shift for 2 laps (Daytona/Sebring). Then I could race again for 2-3 laps before short-shifting again. The CSF MIGHT work, but I'd like to keep it around 200-210. Wishful thinking ????
    im selling my usd csf alum 2" - $246 plus shipping from 27596- should have picts tomorrow.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
    83

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    Thanks sstecker for the offer,,, but I can get a new one locally for $330 with no shipping or tax. How did it work in your car?? Also, was yours a SOHC or DOHC?? And what part of the country??
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Hey Mark,
    Just drive slower and the overheat problems go away.
    You know I have never had an overheat situation:cool:
    Probably never will.
    Carlos
    Gettin' old aint for wimps

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by splats View Post
    Thanks sstecker for the offer,,, but I can get a new one locally for $330 with no shipping or tax. How did it work in your car?? Also, was yours a SOHC or DOHC?? And what part of the country??
    sohc and it worked great in the south east. ran the csf without a fan - just dont sit still for long

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sstecker View Post
    im selling my usd csf alum 2" - $246 plus shipping from 27596- should have picts tomorrow.
    updated price : $190 shipped

    needs new drain plug – it was aluminum on aluminum and I had to drain some fluid last time out and it gulled and then head broke off trying to tighten back. A few bent fins but front pict is as it came off car no cleaning - bugs free of charge. Originally was going to move it to my bmw gts 3 car but want a smaller/thick dual pass.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Fl, USA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sstecker View Post
    updated price : $190 shipped

    needs new drain plug – it was aluminum on aluminum and I had to drain some fluid last time out and it gulled and then head broke off trying to tighten back. A few bent fins but front pict is as it came off car no cleaning - bugs free of charge. Originally was going to move it to my bmw gts 3 car but want a smaller/thick dual pass.
    Post some pics...... Also, is the female part of the plug good or does that also need replacing
    Mark
    Montero Racing (CFR)
    Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
    Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    134

    Default

    Don't trust the stock dash gauge. The needle never moves from the middle of the range from 170 to 230. It goes top the top of the normal zone from 230 to 240, then into the hot zone.

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