Quote Originally Posted by seckerich View Post
The output circuit to the switch in the cabin is an isolated circuit with NO CURRENT...
Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit07 View Post
Because the circuit that is run into the cabin is through the "load" first there really isn't any power flow to the switch.
You guys are both missing the (safety) point. The real safety point: Load is not important. Current is not important. Potential/voltage is important.

Let's take our "hot wire into the cabin" to a worse-case scenario. It's wired up in the "traditional" manner, with the Big Fat Wire going to an in-cabin manual switch. I get into a wreck and hit a wall HARD, crumpling the firewall. that crumpling crimps the Big Fat Wire at the firewall, grounding it to the firewall pass-through (despite using a grommet, it was a Really Hard Hit). That hot battery wire is now grounded, and very high amperage is now flowing directly from the battery to the chassis. Since I did not protect that wire with a fusible link or fuse at the battery, and due to the leakage of fuel from my fuel supply line, very soon POOF! Greggy Flambe.

No amount of manual kill switch is going to protect me from this, even the current (har-de-har) Luddite one. This is why I agreed with Chris' point above vis-a-vis the current "approved" designs (though I challenge the "approved" moniker, reverting to "ignored" or "accepted".) Of course, as I noted before, this can be alleviated simply by putting a fuse/fusible link on the hot wire at the battery.

Note this design is accepted simply because that CIRCUIT is actually switched by the kill switch; even though potential still exists at the switch, we accept the design because the switch opens the battery circuit.

Apply this to your remote kill switch design: if you still have POTENTIAL (read: voltage) to a wire that is not switched by the solenoid - regardless of its voltage - you have potential for current flow. Just as in the scenario above, if these wires were to become grounded in an accident, you will have current flow. Further, this is a circuit that is NOT switched by the solenoid, as is required by the rules.

I'm going to attempt to draw up my "design" this AM, to show you what I mean. My design can be built for probably less than $30 in parts using the ubiquitous Ford starter solenoid, some wiring and switches, and a little bit of time. It's cheap, safe, and meets not only the letter but the intent of the rules...