"bedding" in the brakes is a bit of a misnomer. Getting the brakes to match the contour of the rotor is not terribly important (assuming you have good rotors on your race car!). What IS important is thermally cycling your brake pads so that the compount and adhesives used in manufacture can degas gradually (as in over 3 or 4 laps, not 3 or 4 braking applications). And yes, this applies to Hawk Blues.
Why is this important? A rapid initial thermal cycle will cause enough gas to bake out of pads that the gas will dramatically reduce the friction between the pad and rotor. This is called "green fade" and is characterized by a hard brake pedal and alarmingly little deceleration. It typically happens at the end of a long straight while braking for a slow corner. It will make you a candidate for a brown shorts award. Carroll Smith describes the cause and effects much better in his books.
Whatever method you use, you should see the brake pad discolored from heat at least 1/8 of an inch deep in the friction material (viewed from the side of the pad). I don't believe there is a need to allow the brakes to cool--so as mentioned above, start the session easy on the brakes, and progessively build up to threshold braking over 3 to 4 laps. If you feel green fade, back off for a couple laps. Then resume.

Tak
#29 ITA
SFR SCCA