strapping the car down

[Sandro]

I don't cross my straps for the same reason as Jake mentioned.

Similar discussion here a few weeks ago:
http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthr...ghlight=straps

[Andy Bettencourt]

Textbook method: Cross the fronts and straight back on the rear.

Crossed fronts give you the side to side you should have and straight rears give you the strength under braking or in a crash.

[billf]

Having straight straps in the front will allow the front to move sideways, due to the fact that the straps form a parallelogram. Crossed straps do not allow side to side movement.

Since the greatest shock to the tie-down system would be a front impact (tow vehicle and tralier), I want the strongest hold keeping the car from moving forward (acceleration forces are much smaller). I use chains in the rear, pre-set for length, and pull the car forward to its final position. I want the system to make the car and trailer as one, not the car bouncing on the bed of the trailer. Saves shocks, and provides better control of the mass of the trailer. Example is commercial car haulers...cinch the dam thing right down on its springs.

My opinion.

Bill

[Lael Cleland]

I have recently changed my method a little..... I use one long 10000lb chain in the rear, I have 2 channels to run the chain threw, so if it ain't quite straight on the trailer, the will still have equal tension.... I also put some 1x2 chunks of wood on the trailer in a place that will let me know that its forward enough to hook up the chains, it keeps the car from rolling back also......
Front is like Keycom's, welded ratchets in line with tow hooks, there is only 2 straps to loose! I am thinking about running a safety chain in the front, just in case......