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Thread: Master Disconnect Question- Honda Specific

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    1,106

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    fwiw, here are pictures of the affected section of the wiring diagram for my 1st gen crx and where i connected everything to for the typical shut-off switch.

    the notations are rather cryptic but i think you should be able to get the gist.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/tom91ita/page16/

    the resistor was just wired to the cage where the kill switch was attached.

    tom
    1985 CRX Si competed in Solo II: AS, CS, DS, GS
    1986 CRX Si competed in: SCCA Solo II CSP, SCCA ITA, SCCA ITB, NASA H5
    1988 CRX Si competed in ITA & STL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Prattville, Alabama
    Posts
    129

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    Back to the beginning...

    I have totally disconnected the alternator and the engine still takes about 3 seconds to shut off.

    When I kill either the ignition swith or master disconnect, the ignition shuts off, fuel pump shuts off and the tach drops instantly to zero.

    However the engine continues until it runs down.

    Any ideas?????

    Thanks,

    Todd

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,717

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    Is there an idle cut-off selenoid on the carburetor? Ususally this is the reason for run-on. As for the master switch. I use a relay, used in alarms and emobilizers, that has a grounding terminal. When power is cut the relay gounds out the ECU power wire. Oh, and I've got a spare relay in my tool box JIC,

    James
    STU BMW Z3 2.5liter

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Prattville, Alabama
    Posts
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    No high-tech stuff at all...
    Carb is a Weber DGV and a stock electronic ignition.

    Todd

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,717

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    Quote Originally Posted by toddgreene View Post
    No high-tech stuff at all...
    Carb is a Weber DGV and a stock electronic ignition.

    Todd
    Even a type 1 (Beetle) VW's solex has an idle cut-off selonoid. That said and realizing that a DGV doesn't have an idle cut-off selonoid, I'd think that your ignition still has some residuel power in it after shut-off. If you have the same four pole switch as I have, mine's from Longacre, there's no grounding in the switch. The switch just disconects the two battery terminals from the two that go on into the motor. You need a way to ground out the ignition wire from the key when you cut the power. That's why I use the relay. Cut the power to the relay grounds out the ignition key wire and the alternator, same thing with turning off the key switch as I have the BCS and key switch wired in series, it takes both the master switch and the key toggle switch on to start. Turn either off and the car goes off instantly. The current has to have a place to go and it sounds like it can only go throuch the ignition system now.

    James
    STU BMW Z3 2.5liter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Prattville, Alabama
    Posts
    129

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    Thanks James,

    How exactly do you ground or dump that residual power?

    Todd

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    164

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    I need to add the master kill switch on my carbed CRX. I have the six post switch and get that the large lugs go between the pos battery terminal and the starter and power distribution block.

    I believe I then need to run the N.O. contacts on the switch in series with the positive ignition coil post to kill ignition when the switch is turned off. Does the ignition switch (stock) just remove power from the coil or does it ground the coil?

    Also for the alternator, do I just add a wire from the alternator output post (on the alternator) to the resistor through the master disconnect switch?

    Thanks

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