Setup for welded diff?

[keycom]

While I may wait another year before doing so, I believe I am ready to go to a welded or spooled diff in my 84 GTI. I am currently running open with 650# front and 350# rear springs and Bilstein HD's (not yet re-valved). With "correct" tire pressures (Hankook 211's), the car is just a bit loose and I am starting to learn how to take advantage of that.

Two questions:
How much will I need to change spring rates (no front bar, 2 rear bars) to take best advantage of the welded (or spooled) diff?

How will driving style need to adjust? I am not worried about the paddock or street as I spend very little time there!

Thanks all!

P.S. I have searched the archives and will try to compile all the tidbits I am finding as well.

[SamITC85]

Dave,
You are running the same set-up in terms of springs and shocks I was with my ITC car with a locked and open diff. The only change I had to make was I removed one of my two Shine Tubular sway bars to keep it from oversteering to much. UnfortunatleyI found out what happens with to much over steer at NHIS.
As for driving style be prepared to do all your braking in a straight line because if you are not on the ags the car is going to push like a pig. It is very easy to drive once you get used to getting on the gas to get the car to turn for you. I loved the locked diff. even better than the quaife. Hope this helps.
Sam

[shwah]

You will also have the option of running a front sway bar if you desire.

Driving techinique - get on the gas before early. Lifting will push now instead of tighten the line, try left foot brake instead. Get familiar with how much wider the race track is when you only need two tires on the hard/solid part of it

[racer_tim]

The spring rates are fine, but you don't need both rear bars. I run a front and rear bar with my welded front diff.

Driving styles like Chris said, requires that you be on the loud pedal in order for it to turn. Brake in a straight line, down-shift, turn in, and mash the gas. Hit the apex, hit the exit, and always be at full power.

Simple, right?

Oh yea, standard maintenance, is to swap the hubs, and 1/2 shafts, with CV's each year. I've only had 1 CV joint failure in 7-8 years of running the locker. But I swap everything out every winter.

You will notice that the car seems to pull from the "inside" since that tire is traveling less distance.

Hope this helps.

[keycom]

Thanks guys! I'm ready to get started on next season already!

The archives are bringing up similar advice, so I'm sure I'll make the switch soon!

[msogren]

You can reduce the toe out , both front and rear with the locked, and maybe run less front camber. Our tire wear is better with the welded and less camber is required.
Pray for rain.!! MM