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Thread: Brake Ducts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    ok I have been investigating the web and have seen some pretty good Ideas on brake cooling, since Modifications to brake are not allowed. I would like some of your thoughts and types of material used etc. websites with pics you catch my drift. I appreciate the help.
    Kevin Beck
    StangIT Racing
    Claremore, OK

  2. #2
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    Apr 2001
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    wowser... I am looking for stuff as well...

    Need sources for the tubing as well as the ends (air scoop & a way to attach/direct it to the actual brakes).

    Thanks for any info and suggestions that people post... pictures are always good as well as suppliers!!!

    Raymond "time to cool off " Blethen
    RST Performance Racing
    www.rstperformance.com

  3. #3
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    May 2007
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    Pegasus Racing has some reasonably priced stuff to plumb the brakes but depends on what type of car you drive, I will have to make my on backplate ducts which is not a big deal, just think muffler shop, and on the plumbing part I am running alum tubing as far as I can to minumize flex tubing.
    Kevin Beck
    StangIT Racing
    Claremore, OK

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Colchester, CT, USA
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    I just received a Porterfield catalog this week and it had some cool stuff.

    http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/about.html


    Jeff L

    ITA Miata



    2010 NARRC Champion

    2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
    2008 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
    2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place

  5. #5
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    I went the cheapie route but it does work! Nothing better than a trip to the Home Depot race shop for the collector, Stop & Shop to buy the part which directs air to the rotors, and OG Racing's brake hose. (There are other brands of brake hose which are stronger/thicker, but this has met my needs. Oh yeah, and its inexpensive!)

    Brake hose

    I'll post pics of what I did so others can poke fun at it. LOL
    Dave Gran
    Real Roads, Real Car Guys – Real World Road Tests
    Go Ahead - Take the Wheel's Free Guide to Racing

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the parts sources!!! good stuff

    I went the cheapie route but it does work! Nothing better than a trip to the Home Depot race shop for the collector, Stop & Shop to buy the part which directs air to the rotors, and OG Racing's brake hose. (There are other brands of brake hose which are stronger/thicker, but this has met my needs. Oh yeah, and its inexpensive!)

    Brake hose

    I'll post pics of what I did so others can poke fun at it. LOL
    [/b]

    Especially pictures of the bolded stuff so we can see what you used!!!

    Thanks Dave;

    Raymond
    RST Performance Racing
    www.rstperformance.com

  7. #7
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    Oct 2002
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    Actually Ray, you already have pictures and information about what I use on page 81 of my book. That is unless of course you father still has it. LOL

    I get pics posted here for ya soon.
    Dave Gran
    Real Roads, Real Car Guys – Real World Road Tests
    Go Ahead - Take the Wheel's Free Guide to Racing

  8. #8
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    We have at least 3 copies floating around our "gang" I think one is on my desk at home... I will need to go take a look

    $0.25 a foot for the brake ducting you reference... Why is it sooooo much cheaper than the other stuff on other websites?

    Thanks again Dave...

    Raymond "Yet another reason we all need to read and reread daves book " Blethen
    RST Performance Racing
    www.rstperformance.com

  9. #9
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    May 2007
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    Yea RST looks to be the same stuff but half the price.
    Kevin Beck
    StangIT Racing
    Claremore, OK

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    newington, ct
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    I actually called them to place my order because I questioned the pricing. It is not the thick air craft tubing, but I have already scraped it against curbs and my trailer - it has held up. Next time I need to order brake ducting hose, I'll be ordering that again.

    At Home Depot (insert other favorite race shop here), I used plastic increaser/reducers found near the dryer and plumbing supplies. On the end near the rotor, I brought a measuring tape with me to the super market and located a can of soup (or whatever) that had three inch diameter. Sure, I got a couple of looks from people measuring the cans. That night we had clam chowder for dinner.

    Now granted, there are better ways to get the air right on the rotor but they're also much more expensive. This met my needs.
    Dave Gran
    Real Roads, Real Car Guys – Real World Road Tests
    Go Ahead - Take the Wheel's Free Guide to Racing

  11. #11
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    Sep 2004
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    cromwell ct
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    Amazing Dave,

    A pro-built motor, a DL-1 with dash, PVC and clam chowder cans!!!


    R

    Rob Breault
    BMW 328is #36
    2008 Driving Impressions Pro-ITA Champion
    2008 NARRC DP Champion
    2009 NARRC ITR Champion
    2009 Team DI Pro-ITR Champion

  12. #12
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    I actually called them to place my order because I questioned the pricing. It is not the thick air craft tubing, but I have already scraped it against curbs and my trailer - it has held up. Next time I need to order brake ducting hose, I'll be ordering that again. [/b]
    Thanks for the "product review"!!! I thikn that will be what I try as we have been known to loose a few airdams in the past

    At Home Depot (insert other favorite race shop here), I used plastic increaser/reducers found near the dryer and plumbing supplies. On the end near the rotor, I brought a measuring tape with me to the super market and located a can of soup (or whatever) that had three inch diameter. Sure, I got a couple of looks from people measuring the cans. That night we had clam chowder for dinner.
    [/b]
    I thought that you got desert??? Was the Chowder from the second set lol


    Ok, now the real question dave... I figured out all the stuff you got, how did you mount those PVC/plastic increaser/reducer? Do you think that it would be worth spending the extra on an actual molded inlet?

    I have to admit, I was looking at spending $100+ to put in brake ducts, and I was a bit worried at that investment mounted into a crappy front spoiler... Now the total cost without the fancy inlets is down to:

    Plastic increacser/decreaser: 2 @ $2.00 = $4.00
    Brake ducting: 10' @ $0.25 = $2.50
    Chowder cans to mount to housing and direct air at rotor: 2 @ 1.25 = $2.50
    Hose clamps: 4 @ $1.00 = $4.00
    Mounting screws and what not: Free off the floor in the corner...
    Total Cost: $13.00!!!

    Now get a bit more fancy on the inlets: 2 @ ~$25 = $50
    Less the $2.00 increaser/decreaser = -$4.00
    Total Cost for a "more fancy" setup: $59.00

    Thanks everyone for the posts, feel free to continue offering advice... especially a source for some cheap but "fancy" inlets like what Pegasus Racing has...

    Raymond "Daves book has a lot more great tidbits of advice, Go Ahead (get it and) Take the Wheel!!!" Blethen




    RST Performance Racing
    www.rstperformance.com

  13. #13
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    Brake ducting: 10' @ $0.25 = $2.50[/b]
    The OG pricing is in inches, but it still a fantastic deal. So your $2.50 total increases to $30 plus shipping.

    how did you mount those PVC/plastic increaser/reducer?[/b]
    I drilled a hole through it and the bottom of the OEM air dam, then put a bolt with big washers through it. Mine sits on a “shelf” which allows it to be bolted to the bottom.

    Do you think that it would be worth spending the extra on an actual molded inlet?[/b]
    With my car no, but then again I don’t have a true racing air dam. I suppose it will depend upon how your air dam is built. They are not terribly expensive (@ $17 each).

    IF I had an issue with my brakes getting too hot, I could see also getting a better tool to direct the air closer to the rotor. My primary goal with this is to reduce the brake / rotor temp a bit and thus help with my front tire temps a bit.

    Just trying to spend my money in the right areas Rob. LOL!
    Dave Gran
    Real Roads, Real Car Guys – Real World Road Tests
    Go Ahead - Take the Wheel's Free Guide to Racing

  14. #14
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    From the website:

    This hose is manufactured for us to our specifications. It is abrasion, acid and solvent resistant, and withstands temperatures from -40F to +240F. Compared to the 2-1/2" hose found in similar kits, it flows over 25% more air. Our Cool Brake kits contain the hose you will need for a complete installation. This replacement hose is sold by the inch - a typical Cool Brake installation for any Porsche 911 requires 15" of hose per side; all 944 model range installations require 36" of hose per side.
    COOL BRAKE HOSE 3" DIAMETER $0.25


    My bad, thank you dave for the correction... that was a big "opps"

    Raymond
    RST Performance Racing
    www.rstperformance.com

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