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Thread: how often should the engine oil, coolant, brake oil, etc be changed

  1. #1
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    starting next season will be the first time i have ever raced on a track and i am planning on racing in most races next season. to make long story short, i bought an already built 1989 nissan 240sx ITA and am happy with the car and cant wait for the season to start.

    the few questions i have are mostly related to how often do you guys change various fluids. it would be great if i can get some advice on...

    the type (weight) of engine oil to use?
    how often should i replace it?
    what brake fluid should i use?
    any specifics about the type of coolant and how often should that be flushed?
    how about the radiator hoses, is it good enough to change these just once a year?

    any other advice you guys can give me and maybe list some things which i should look out for will be greatly appreciated.

    thanks.
    Harp Grewal
    240sx ITA #9
    SF Region
    If you want something go get it - period

  2. #2
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    the type (weight) of engine oil to use? i am pleased with castrol 20w50 but have used lighter weight sythetics as well.
    how often should i replace it? usually after each double regional weekend
    what brake fluid should i use? i use the ford Heavy Duty fluid. start fresh and bleed some each weekend
    any specifics about the type of coolant and how often should that be flushed? nasa requires water and then i use redline water wetter. since i live in michigan, i drain and fill with antifreeze and start new the next year
    how about the radiator hoses, is it good enough to change these just once a year? uhhh... never changed them since starting with the car in 1992

    any other advice you guys can give me and maybe list some things which i should look out for will be greatly appreciated.

    thanks.

    H Grewal
    '89 240sx ITA
    SF Region
    [/b]
    see answers above. ymmv. the hondas are pretty forgiving with regards to being pretty reliable and relatively easy on brakes.
    1985 CRX Si competed in Solo II: AS, CS, DS, GS
    1986 CRX Si competed in: SCCA Solo II CSP, SCCA ITA, SCCA ITB, NASA H5
    1988 CRX Si competed in ITA & STL

  3. #3
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    Buckle up, there are as many opinions on this as there are for why one car is better than another or what kind of beer you should buy.

    Do some sifting & searching on this page you will find several threads about fluids & oil filters.

    My 2 cents is this - swap glycol for water in the spring, reverse in the fall. Start the seaon w/ fresh oil, change it when it changes from light to dark.

    Remember free advice is worth what you paid for it.

    Have fun out there.

  4. #4
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    Back when.....the old days when I was maintaining my team, we changed the oil every race. The engine in a race car takes much more abuse than the street car and you really don't want that color change in a race motor. You will keep your motor much more happy with frequent oil changes and besides, when you do this, you get a chance to check the oil for sparklies and prevent many problems before they happen. We always used Castrol 20/50 for the race motor and had no problems whatsoever. Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid is a good brake fluid unless you go out and spend the BIG bucks for racing brake fluid. Remember, whatever you do, DO NOT EVER mix synthetics with regular fluids of any type without thoroughly flushing the system out, be it oil, gear lube, or brake fluid. Mixing will cause problems you don't ever want to have.
    Good luck.
    A Race Junky from the Get Go......

  5. #5
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    1,106

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    here is an interesting thread regarding brake fluids and boiling points:

    http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1788969

    but read into it to see what the brake tests actually revealed. ford HD is good and relatively inexpensive.
    1985 CRX Si competed in Solo II: AS, CS, DS, GS
    1986 CRX Si competed in: SCCA Solo II CSP, SCCA ITA, SCCA ITB, NASA H5
    1988 CRX Si competed in ITA & STL

  6. #6
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    My experience on a completely different motor... (hopefully a 240SX driver can put in some more brand-specific directions)

    Oil - Valvoline VR1 dino race oil, 40W, changed every weekend, with new Mahle filter. I find the Fram HP1 filter doesn't filter out the fine particles that seem to pop up in my motor (presumably from when I broke in the pistons, or possibly rings). Used to run Mobil 1, but this stuff is fine and cheaper. After 2 seasons of racing, my rod bearings looked quite good, like about a 50-70kmi street motor with moderate (not retentive) maintenance. Plus my car uses 8 qts per oil change! I also run it real loose, low oil pressure, only 3-4bar at speed (vs 5-6bar on a stock motor).

    To get a better idea than that, you'll need to take a sample after 1 weekend and send it in for analysis.

    Coolant - YMMV, Some prefer just water with Water Wetter; I live up north where racecars freeze in the winter, so I run the orange coolant (since it's recommended - phosphate free). I don't find I need to change my radiator hoses every year; in fact, most of them have been there since day 1 (7 seasons ago). I think you just need to keep an eye on them for swelling, breakdown, or exterior damage. That and have a good functioning cooling system.

    Brake fluid - I use the ATE Super Blue, not too expensive, works great for many Porsche and Bimmer racers.

    You forgot trans fluid! I do that every year. I also repack CV's every year. Front wheel bearings get repacked every year, replace every other; rear wheel bearings only seem like they'll last one season (about 6 weekends) for me.
    Vaughan Scott
    Detroit Region #280052
    '79 924 #77 ITB
    #65 Hidari Firefly P2
    www.vaughanscott.com

  7. #7
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    thanks for all the replies. looks like there is no 1 answer to this. i am going to start off by replacing all the fluids and will just keep an eye on everything before and after the races and change as needed.

    on a side note, is there an advantage of using water rather then coolant in the radiator as some of you stated that you prefer water and apparently the guy who i bought the car from also used water. i just don't know how that can be more beneficial.
    Harp Grewal
    240sx ITA #9
    SF Region
    If you want something go get it - period

  8. #8
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    Jan 2001
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    Floyds Knobs, IN
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    Straight water is a better coolant than an antifreeze mix. Antifreeze also makes one hell of a mess on a racetrack. You fellow racers will thank you for not using antifreeze if there is ever a spill.
    Chris Ludwig
    GL Lakes Div
    www.ludwigmotorsports.com

  9. #9
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    Aug 2005
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    starting next season will be the first time i have ever raced on a track and i am planning on racing in most races next season. to make long story short, i bought an already built 1989 nissan 240sx ITA and am happy with the car and cant wait for the season to start.

    the few questions i have are mostly related to how often do you guys change various fluids. it would be great if i can get some advice on...

    the type (weight) of engine oil to use?
    how often should i replace it?
    what brake fluid should i use?
    any specifics about the type of coolant and how often should that be flushed?
    how about the radiator hoses, is it good enough to change these just once a year?

    any other advice you guys can give me and maybe list some things which i should look out for will be greatly appreciated.

    thanks.
    [/b]
    I tried Castrol 20-50 syntec, didn't like it, really thin and I had problems keeping oil pressure. I went to the track shop, 7's Only at Buttonwillow, and they only had Redline Race Oil in 50wt. I've been really happy with my pressures with the Redline Race Oil (12psi idle and ~50psi at rpm). I change it out every other race weekend. I've ordered it from Jeg's by the gallon, but since you're in the Bay-Area Redline is local stuff for you. For Transmission oil I'm using Redline's MTL it's a little thicker than the D-4 ATF, ZF transmission's recommend ATF fluids stock. In the Diff I'm using GL-5 fortified 75-90 Redline gear oil.

    Brake fluid, I'm happy with the Ate-Blue, it's held up really well, I just finished up my 4th race weekend without a bleed, but I'm in the high-desert so humidity isn't a problem like in the Midwest or East.

    Be sure to used distilled water, with what ever you decided to use. Pure water will transfer heat better than any anti-freeze mix. The water-wetter is there to lube the water pump seals. Since I needed a new belt and one new rediator hose, I changed out the rest of the hoses too. Being in the Bay-Area you won't need to go through the motions of switching to Anti-Freeze over the winter, unless there's one of those rare cold snaps, just keep the race car in the garage and it should be fine. Hope to see you down here in the Southland some time

    James
    STU BMW Z3 2.5liter

  10. #10
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    I tried Castrol 20-50 syntec, didn't like it, really thin and I had problems keeping oil pressure. I went to the track shop, 7's Only at Buttonwillow, and they only had Redline Race Oil in 50wt. I've been really happy with my pressures with the Redline Race Oil (12psi idle and ~50psi at rpm). I change it out every other race weekend. I've ordered it from Jeg's by the gallon, but since you're in the Bay-Area Redline is local stuff for you. For Transmission oil I'm using Redline's MTL it's a little thicker than the D-4 ATF, ZF transmission's recommend ATF fluids stock. In the Diff I'm using GL-5 fortified 75-90 Redline gear oil.

    Brake fluid, I'm happy with the Ate-Blue, it's held up really well, I just finished up my 4th race weekend without a bleed, but I'm in the high-desert so humidity isn't a problem like in the Midwest or East.

    Be sure to used distilled water, with what ever you decided to use. Pure water will transfer heat better than any anti-freeze mix. The water-wetter is there to lube the water pump seals. Since I needed a new belt and one new rediator hose, I changed out the rest of the hoses too. Being in the Bay-Area you won't need to go through the motions of switching to Anti-Freeze over the winter, unless there's one of those rare cold snaps, just keep the race car in the garage and it should be fine. Hope to see you down here in the Southland some time

    James
    [/b]

    James, thanks for the detailed reply. it is really helpful. i believe the person i bought the car from also used Readline Race Oil (synthetic) so i will just stick with that and start of with changing it every other race too.

    also, currently it does have water and not anti-freeze in the radiator but when i remove the cap and look inside the radiator it seems to have some rusty looking buildup. this was my main concern bout running plain water. i am going to flush the water but i am not sure if i should take out the radiator and get it cleaned as well in order to remove the buildup inside. do you think flushing it is good enough?
    Harp Grewal
    240sx ITA #9
    SF Region
    If you want something go get it - period

  11. #11
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    I'd say get a good flush, you'll want it to work as well as it can. Sound like someone put tap water in once, as the mineral content makes the corrosion factor worse than with distilled. Also be sure to add the water wetter, it's important for the pump and it's only a very small concentration compaired to an anti-freeze mix. I've still got the stock Aluminum-plastic radiator, it's a throw away.

    James
    STU BMW Z3 2.5liter

  12. #12
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    I use Redline 30 weight for motor oil. That's what Rebello specifies for the motors they build and that's what Bob was using in this motor. I get 60 PSI at 6500 RPM and somewhere around 10-15 PSI at idle with the oil hot.

    I run distilled water with water wetter during the racing season and put anti-freeze in during the offseason. I have a monster radiator and temps can actually be a little low if it's cool outside.

    I use the Motul 600 brake fluid, but as others have said that may be a little overkill for us. I figure it's only a few bottles a year, though, so it isn't that much extra.

    I'm not sure about differential and gear oil and hopefully one of the other 240SX guys will chime in as I want to change mine in the offseason. The differential fluid may depend on the type you have installed. I've got a Nismo competition LS.

    Hope that helps.

    David
    ITA 240SX #17
    Atlanta Region

  13. #13
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    Genuine Mercedes Benz Brake Fluid (It is probably ATE Gold). Good stuff, as is the ATE. Bleed pre-race weekend. Never drain entire system; you change enough with components (masters, calipers and wheel cylinders).

    I change oil after a race weekend. Use whatever you like; they are all pretty good. I am now considering Diesel oils.

    I change coolant when I change a coolant hose or motor (ie, when you drain the coolant)

  14. #14
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    hi guys, soon i am going to be changing the tranny, differential and brake fluids. Based on the various responses and some research the following is what I am thinking about using.

    Transmission oil:
    Redline MT-90

    Differential oil:
    Redline 75W90 gear oil


    Brake fluid:
    This one I am not sure about yet and will appreciate if someone has used some of the following and has an opinion on which one would be better...
    1. Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid
    2. ATE Super Blue
    3. Motul 600 brake fluid
    4. Genuine Mercedes Benz Brake Fluid



    Any thoughts, suggestions or comments are welcome

    Thanks,
    Harp Grewal
    240sx ITA #9
    SF Region
    If you want something go get it - period

  15. #15
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    kansas city mo
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    Around here you need to run anti-freeze in the spring and late fall, it can easly get into the 20's at night and in the morning. Pretty much everyone I talk to around here runs it for safety sake till about April. Then they switch back Sept-Oct. Remember how cold the Runoff's where, I have raced when it has been snowing, sleeting. During the summer I switch to water.

    As far as the oil goes I just keep an eye on it, change it when it gets dark. I also change the diff and tranny once a year.

    PS, Never have a 6yr old help you put gear oil in....why does gear oil smell so bad and why is it so hard to get out of your hair.

  16. #16
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    I've been quite happy with the ATE Super Blue - full flush once a year, and bleed it before each race weekend.

    My wife says the way to get oil out of your hair is use shampoo directly on it before applying water; work in thoroughly, then get water in there.
    Vaughan Scott
    Detroit Region #280052
    '79 924 #77 ITB
    #65 Hidari Firefly P2
    www.vaughanscott.com

  17. #17
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    I use MTL in my tranny, but I don't think you can go wrong with MT-90 either; Red Line Lightweight Shockpoof gear oil in the diff, but that is with a Torsen-type diff, the 75W90 may be better for a clutch-type. I use the Motul brake fluid but I know a lot of guys who use the ATE also, I don't think you can go wrong with either. Are you planning to flush all the old brake fluid? If not I would want to find out what the last guy was using and continue using that. Water and water wetter in the radiator - I would imagine you already have one but know that an oversized radiator is a must in one of these cars. Most guys are also running an oil cooler with the 240SX, if you don't already you may want to look into installing one.

    I change the oil every couple of races, the other fluids at the start of the season, and the hoses have been on the car for 3 years and still look good.

    Also, there are some excellent threads on the 240SX in the Nissan forum on this board; if you change your board settings to "Show All" you'll find discussions going back to 2002.

    Good luck!

    Earl R.
    240SX
    ITA/ST5

  18. #18
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    Feb 2007
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    I change radiator fluid and coolant pretty often. I know I shouldn't and that I don't need to, but I'm a little crazy about temperature problems.

  19. #19
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    Mooresville,IN USA
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    I change radiator fluid and coolant pretty often. I know I shouldn't and that I don't need to, but I'm a little crazy about temperature problems.

    [/b]


    What type of car do you run and what temps are you seeing ??????????
    Michael Flock

  20. #20
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    Let this one go, Michael. I've reviewed this user's posts, and I suspect it's a computer spambot: the posts are too close together and offer *just* enough content to make you think it's human, yet not enough to make sense. Possibly just there to create the commercial message in the sig (a new, "refreshing" way of advertising on forums...great)

    I've reported these posts to the Webmaster and we'll let him make a determination before they're deleted and the account killed. - GA

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