Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 61 to 67 of 67

Thread: Kill switch wiring

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,717

    Default

    Both my battery wires go through my BCS, with the small wire also going through a toggle switch to the factory imobillizer relay (avaliable at radio/alarm shops). The relay provides power to the energizer side
    Last edited by Z3_GoCar; 11-02-2011 at 01:36 AM.
    STU BMW Z3 2.5liter

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    70

    Default

    To revisit this again, I was helping someone over on Honda Tech and went out and checked my ITA CRX

    With the cutoff switch to the off position I still have power at the starter and the alternator

    This has obviously passed tech many times and I checked the GCR and it passes according to the wording

    But does this sound right?


    The car shuts off while its running (since it kills power to the ing) but still two components and there wiring still have power

    Thanks in advance

    davegt74

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,346

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Davegt74 View Post
    But does this sound right?
    Nope.

    The whole point of a kill switch is to remove electrical energy from the entire car, so that nothing is running *and* nothing can spark/short to start a fire. If you have power to anything, then something's wrong.

    Without a wiring diagram of your car, there's no way for anyone to troubleshoot what's wrong, but in short you should have a single big wire from the battery positive terminal to the kill switch, then from there to everything else.

    I'm going to guess that you have two wires at the battery positive terminal, going to the starter and alternator. Or someone installed your kill switch in some really odd place (like only in the ignition wire).

    GA


    P.S. Not required by the regs, but you really should have a big fusible link at the battery going to the kill switch. That way if something crushes the wire between the battery and kills switch and shorts it, you're still protected.
    Not my circus...not my monkeys...

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    70

    Default

    ok that's what I thought


    thanks


    David

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Houston-ish
    Posts
    932

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Amy View Post
    P.S. Not required by the regs, but you really should have a big fusible link at the battery going to the kill switch. That way if something crushes the wire between the battery and kills switch and shorts it, you're still protected.
    Good point. That's always been a concern of mine with the routing of any relocated battery. My cables run along the right side of the car, strapped to the INSIDE of the cage tubing in the hopes that they don't get crushed in a wreck, but I've always been afraid of that happening. I also just ripped the bigass stereo out of one of my old cars and have a fuseholder capable of holding a 400A fuse.. Any idea what amperage I should use?
    Houston Region
    STU Nissan 240SX
    EProd RX7

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,346

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post
    Any idea what amperage I should use?
    Depends on your wire size...most cars are around 12AWG, I'm guessing? that would be a 20A fusible link. Of course, if the power wire is shorted to ground, a battery can probably put out 500A before exploding...I suggest it would be best to size the fuse for the wire you're using.

    http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technica...an-Wire-Gauge/
    http://www.bdfuses.com/fusesnwires.php
    Not my circus...not my monkeys...

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Houston-ish
    Posts
    932

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Amy View Post
    Depends on your wire size...most cars are around 12AWG, I'm guessing? that would be a 20A fusible link. Of course, if the power wire is shorted to ground, a battery can probably put out 500A before exploding...I suggest it would be best to size the fuse for the wire you're using.

    http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technica...an-Wire-Gauge/
    http://www.bdfuses.com/fusesnwires.php
    There's only about a 10 or 12AWG wire going to the ignition stuff, but from the battery to the kill switch/starter, it's a 4awg wire. big stuff. That's the one that concerns me since it'll easily suck up all of the current the battery can put out until it explodes. (don't ask how I know....)
    Houston Region
    STU Nissan 240SX
    EProd RX7

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •