Kill switch wiring

[group7]

Does anyone know if this simple circuit will do any harm to the MSD ignition system??

I just spoke to MSD tech line with the same question, they recommended wiring the power feed to the box (heavy red wire) through the secondary contacts of the switch but switching switched power wire (smaller red would be acceptable. No damage to box with either according to their tech guy.
Daryl E.

[wepsbee]

I just spoke to MSD tech line with the same question, they recommended wiring the power feed to the box (heavy red wire) through the secondary contacts of the switch but switching switched power wire (smaller red would be acceptable. No damage to box with either according to their tech guy.
Daryl E.

Thanks for checking!!

[Simon T.]

Well silly me waited until the week of the ARRC to figure out my kill switch, I THOUGHT it was going to be easy but underestimated it. I made a switch panel a while back from my ignition switch and thought I could combine that wiring (the switch that kills pump and what not) to my battery kill switch and be golden, sadly I was wrong.

I have a two terminal switch. I see people use ones with 4 and 6 sometimes, so is there anyway to do it with just two?

If I wire my hot alternator wire directly to my battery then run that cable to one side of the switch and run the other side of the switch back to the alternator and + battery terminal in the fuse box would that kill it?

At least everything else is ready.

[Matt93SE]

simon, that sounds what I've done with mine. you also want to run a wire from the switched side to your starter if that's not part of the fuse box wiring. IIRC mine went straight to the battery (originally about 3' away from the starter), so when I installed my switch, I ran a dedicated wire there too.
Works every time.

[Z3_GoCar]

Both my battery wires go through my BCS, with the small wire also going through a toggle switch to the factory imobillizer relay (avaliable at radio/alarm shops). The relay provides power to the energizer side

[Davegt74]

To revisit this again, I was helping someone over on Honda Tech and went out and checked my ITA CRX

With the cutoff switch to the off position I still have power at the starter and the alternator

This has obviously passed tech many times and I checked the GCR and it passes according to the wording

But does this sound right?


The car shuts off while its running (since it kills power to the ing) but still two components and there wiring still have power

Thanks in advance

davegt74

[Greg Amy]

But does this sound right?

Nope.

The whole point of a kill switch is to remove electrical energy from the entire car, so that nothing is running *and* nothing can spark/short to start a fire. If you have power to anything, then something's wrong.

Without a wiring diagram of your car, there's no way for anyone to troubleshoot what's wrong, but in short you should have a single big wire from the battery positive terminal to the kill switch, then from there to everything else.

I'm going to guess that you have two wires at the battery positive terminal, going to the starter and alternator. Or someone installed your kill switch in some really odd place (like only in the ignition wire).

GA


P.S. Not required by the regs, but you really should have a big fusible link at the battery going to the kill switch. That way if something crushes the wire between the battery and kills switch and shorts it, you're still protected.