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Thread: Kill switch wiring

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
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    7,381

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    If you isolate the battery with the main circuit, and run the alternator field circuit through the normally-open circuit with the resistor, you'll be fine.

    The resistor circuit is there primarily to protect the contacts of the main circuit (and really should be used on any car, regardless of what charging system you have). If you simply open up such a high-current circuit as the battery, that load has to go somewhere; without the resistor circuit it arcs the contacts of the main switch. Giving the load someplace to slowly drain protects those contacts.

    Further, if the field circuit of an alternator stays energized (as it can with a charning system) then it can harm the alternator.

    So, by running the field circuit of the alternator through the NO circuit with resistor, you resolve both problems.

    As far as Tech is concerned, if they can reach over and shut off your car entirely with that switch (and trust me, they'll test it) then it's fine. They/we don't give two shakes what it does to the components of the charnging system; their concern is safety, your concern is making sure it doesn't hurt stuff...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    PA
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    2

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    Greg, is this relevant to a dodge charger? Should I get a kill switch with the 6 terminals (2 lge, 4 sm)?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,381

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Foering View Post
    Greg, is this relevant to a dodge charger? Should I get a kill switch with the 6 terminals (2 lge, 4 sm)?
    Yes, it's relevant to all cars with alternators. I strongly recommend the 6-pole kill switch, with the two large terminals for the battery circuit, the normally-open (NO) circuit for the bleed resistor, and the normally-closed (NC) circuit for the ignition circuit... - GA

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